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bleed down mod for the 94.5 and 95 trucks

3K views 0 replies 1 participant last post by  JohnDeere9610 
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Here is the mod to fix the front cover bleed down issue on the 94.5 and 95 trucks when installing a 17* hpop

I didnt type this buts its very hard to fine so I hoping it will be easier to find here.



PARTS LIST:

SuperDuty 17* HPOP Ford PN F81Z-9A543-CRM
IPR (without edge filter) Ford ESN 187100 and up Ford PN F81Z-9C968-AA IH PN 1833798C91
Ford 1996 and newer reservoir Ford PN F6TZ-6658-AA IH PN 1823534C2
Ford 1995 HPOP reservoir gasket Ford PN F4TZ-6619-A
Ford 1996 and up reservoir gasket Ford PN F6TZ-6619-AA
Ford 1996 and up HPOP 3 hole gasket Ford PN F6TZ-9417-AA
Standard 11/16" spade bit
Standard 3/16" drill bit
1/4" Self tapping screw with small head
Tube of IH grey RTV
Regular size dishpan for reservoir and fuel filter assembly

This modification is really only for people with up to '95 (serial number #201681 and below; thanks BlueMule) engines that want to put in a single SD pump. Please note that if you are willing to install a dual pump system such as the Terminator, Stealth, or any others you will not need this. Just specify that you have a early motor and you will be provided with the parts so that the early pump is in front next to the reservoir and a SD pump as the rear pump. I recently purchased a Stealth pump from Beans Diesel Performance, so I will report later on how this works with the stack pumps.

The modification basics:
The oil flow originally went:
- from the check valve in the ’95 HPOP View here
- into the upper drivers side cavity in the timing cover
- through the little hole in the front of that cavity
- into the gear housing
- down to the pan.

We want to change this by blocking the little hole in the front of the timing cover and drilling a new hole in the timing cover that goes from the upper drivers side cavity, up to the standpipe in the new reservoir.

The new oil flow will now be:
- from the newer HPOP View here
- into the upper drivers side cavity in the timing cover
- UP through the new hole drilled into the timing cover
- up the standpipe in the NEW reservoir
- back down to the gear cavity
- down to the pan.

Step 1 is to remove the existing HPOP reservoir.
Drain the reservoir by sucking out the excess oil out of the fill plug on the top of the reservoir. The 1995 one on mine had a 1/4" female plug. Once the tank is dry, pull the sensor plugs off, remove the bracket holding the loom off the top of the reservoir, and lean the wire loom back towards the rear of the engine. There are 5 bolts on top of the reservoir. Get a dish pan handy and unbolt these and pop off the reservoir, placing it in the dishpan. It oozed out oil for some time on mine.

Step 2 is to remove the fuel filter assembly.
To remove the HPOP, you will have to pull the fuel filter assembly. Crack open the top of the filter top, and drain the fuel to something as it comes out the bottom of the truck with the drain valve in the front passenger side of the fuel filter assy. Loosen all the associated fuel lines and sensors, remove the two bolts at the bottom rear of the fuel filter assy, and pull it out. Put this in the dish pan as well, cus it will just keep dripping fuel wherever you put it.

Step 3 is to remove the HPOP.
Once the fuel filter assy is out, remove the front access plate to the HPOP and remove the bolt that goes into the HPOP and holds the gear on. I seem to recall that the washer can not fall anywhere dangerous with the gear there, but be careful anyway. No since taking any chances! Next remove the two HPOP lines and prop them somewhere where the end is higher than the HPOP otherwise they will ooze oil. You might want to cap them off with something just to keep them all clean. Last thing is to remove IPR valve wiring plug, and remove the two bolts holding the HPOP to the cover from the rear. Once the HPOP is out, pull the gear out, remembering to note which side of the gear goes to the rear of the engine and place it in the dishpan as well.

At this point you should be left with something looking like this (My HPOP was still installed in this picture. I had to remove it later):
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2412

Step 4 is to swap around sensors.
You need to swap the sensor that was on the back of the reservoir of the old one and put it on the new one. I tried to remember the sensor alignment so that the plug wires would fit back in without having to twist around the plug once I re-install everything. Since it is pipe threads, make sure you use some sort of sealer. I used liquid Teflon.
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2488

Step 5 is to create the new standpipe hole in the timing cover.
To create the new hole in the timing cover to the new reservoir standpipe, I VERY CAREFULLY centered the F6TZ-6619-AA gasket on the timing cover. Center punch the timing cover where the additional hole is using the F6TZ-6619-AA gasket as a template.

At this point you will be making lots of metal shavings so be very careful and prep the area with lots of rags and such protecting any possible path into the engine. I used several layers so that I could remove them one at a time and vacuum very thoroughly between each layer I removed. I also used plenty of brake cleaner to wash the metal particles onto the rags before I removed them.

Drill a 3/16" hole down through the timing cover to the small upper drivers side cavity. Don’t have to be terribly careful other than making sure the hole is perpendicular to the timing cover. I have a buddy stand at the side of the truck and watch the front and back tilt, and I watched the left to right tilt and drilled away. Once that is done, you will need to make the special gasket relief tool, or in other words the 11/16" spade bit with the end tips ground down so that it will create a flat gasket relief in the timing cover. Here is my special tool:
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2476

With the special new drill bit, create the gasket relief the same way you drilled the hole. Be careful not to drill too deep. Go in steps to make sure that you get the depth right. I used the old gasket as a depth gauge. Here is what I ended up with:
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2480

Step 6 is to plug the existing hole in the timing cover.
Last part of the mod is to plug the hole in the front of the small cavity. I used a self tapping screw from the REAR of the timing cover coated with lots of RTV. Once it is in place, trim the excess screw that is protruding into the gear area.
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2492

CLEAN EVERYTHING CARFULY!

Step 7 is to put it all back together.
Drop in the HPOP gear into place noting correct direction to place the gear.
Using the NEW style HPOP gasket F6TZ-9417-AA, install the HPOP (24 ft-Lbs, NO TIGHTER!) and associated oil lines.
Tighten the HPOP gear and put the front gear access cover back on.
Lay in the old style gasket F4TZ-6619-A on the timing cover.
Take the new F6TZ-6619-AA gasket and cut out the little ‘o’ ring part of the gasket and place it in the newly created gasket relief.
Seal the rest of the timing cover with RTV including the intersections between the two sections of gasket that we laid out above.
Bolt on the new reservoir.
Install fuel filter assy.
Plug in sensors, and replace wire loom where it was originally.

Final step start it up..
Fill up the new reservoir with oil. Crank over the engine for 10 seconds, wait 30 and crank another 10 seconds until the engine starts. Check for leaks and you should be done. Go get a beer and relax for a while. Congratulations.

All the associated pictures are available here:
http://www.nigh.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2402

And the original article that inspired me, by Rich (95F450SD)
 
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