Traction Bars

[Tom S]

That sounds great. I take still real no downsides that you have noticed.

[Tom S]

I think I have it correctly mapped out on a template how the axle moves fore and aft when the suspension is compressed and released. I believe the spring at the front end from the eye to the axle gains 1/16 of length released and shortens 1/8 to 3/16 when fully compressed. The suspension otherwise I think follows the radius from the front spring eye to the center line of the axle with an appoximate travel of 5.5 inches up to the bump stop to 2 inches dropped til the shocks fully extend.

I drew that out on paper and started playing with possible places on the frame to put the front mount that best follows that adjusted arc. Using the pro comp brackets the bars do not really need to be super long like one might think. I was looking at a 58" set when I quit playing with if for the day. The brackets should be here this week so I can better mock it all up then.

I also want to compare how it looks on paper to what the driveshaft angle is. If it that comes out close I would feel really comfortable.

Tom

[mandkole]

Tom, from my experience, you would be best served to install the rear mounts and their joints then play with the tube length using pvc. The front mounts will locate the joint centerline at about 2.5" below the frame rail (IIRC) and this is difficult to account for until you have them. You're correct on needing a shorter tube length with the procomp mounts because they are mounted higher on the axle-- the link is basically the hypotenuse in the triangle.

In thinking about my truck (lb sc), a 58" tube would have oriented at a flatter angle than the drive shaft. I would have liked something a little longer but it could not be accomodated. My tube angle is 'slightly' steeper than the shaft. However, my suspension still has good compression and loads the links good under pinion load so it appears to be very close.

One last thing, with the adjustable joints, you can change the centerline length range of the bars by about 3/16" between preload max and min. The preload is still unknown and I want to play with more when towing a trailer. I'm happy with it empty but the jury is still out on the trailer....

[Tom S]

Thanks for the reply. I have really enjoyed this thread and am looking forward to this project.

Tom

[CNDiesel]

Originally Posted by mandkole

Drove the truck a little more today and 'tested' the bars. The clutch took a bit of abuse, but I let it go in 2nd @ 2K and it just annialated the tires-- no hop, just spin like it was wet.

Awesome. One day I will beable todo that

[Tom S]

The brackets arrived today. Nice pieces and a lot more heavy duty then I was expecting. I think the box was like 20lbs. Kind of a shame I will not be using the nice poly bushings from the kit. Just need to touch up the powder coat some where they were touching in the box. Thanks to Chris at Truck Source Diesel for getting these too me.

[Tom S]

I started working a bit on this today. The rear mounts were not exactly bolt on. With the spring perches on my axle, I had to scribe them in to fit flat on the spring perch as they were hitting the tube. Got to spend a little time with the angle grinder on that deal. I also had to elongate the hole where the locating pin goes just a bit. I should have the rear bracket installation wrapped up in the morning though.

Tom

[Stroked95]

Originally Posted by mandkole

Tom, from my experience, you would be best served to install the rear mounts and their joints then play with the tube length using pvc. The front mounts will locate the joint centerline at about 2.5" below the frame rail (IIRC) and this is difficult to account for until you have them. You're correct on needing a shorter tube length with the procomp mounts because they are mounted higher on the axle-- the link is basically the hypotenuse in the triangle.

In thinking about my truck (lb sc), a 58" tube would have oriented at a flatter angle than the drive shaft. I would have liked something a little longer but it could not be accomodated. My tube angle is 'slightly' steeper than the shaft. However, my suspension still has good compression and loads the links good under pinion load so it appears to be very close.

One last thing, with the adjustable joints, you can change the centerline length range of the bars by about 3/16" between preload max and min. The preload is still unknown and I want to play with more when towing a trailer. I'm happy with it empty but the jury is still out on the trailer....

If you don't mind me asking what did your total come to on your set up?

[mandkole]

95- I was about $500 incl u-bolts..

Tom-- I first thought that I'd need to clearance the mounts a bit but they sat flat and touched the axle tube a little. Your spring pads must have been a tad shallower than mine were to have your mounts rock on the tube. I then had to put in the extender bolts on the spacer block. Not exactly bolt on, I agree...

[Tom S]

I reused my U-bolts as they were good shape although I did consider if from a safety perspective. I did review the factory manual and it did not say anything about not re-using them. When I put new springs in the front years ago I got them from a medium duty truck parts place in town and they made them up while you waited for them.