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My version of the electric fuel system

26K views 30 replies 18 participants last post by  glovemeister 
#1 ·
When I first got this truck, there was a fuel leak in the valley that turned out to be the pump. That got replaced along with the hoses in the valley.
Then last winter I was having problems with the truck dieing after driving less than a mile if it wasn't plugged in and the weather was @#*@*&^%$*)&*^^%%&*^%%$$^&&!!!!! COLD (like 0 to -10deg F cold). It would always restart and run great after that, but it took 3-5 cranking bursts to get it started.
The original fuel heater wire had broken, so I removed it. Thinking that the fuel was waxing, I installed the SD fuel heater because it was less prone to breaking.
Like a dummy, I couldn't leave well enough alone, so I pulled apart the regulator to clean it. But, the O-ring on the bottom got cut as I was assembling it. Next weekend I replaced the O-ring (part of an $80 kit from Ford), but that only slowed it down. Being a ******* (and quite proud of it), I slapped some JB weld on the sucker, let it dry and installed the FPR. No more leak! Hoorah!
At least, no more leak until the next winter.
Not wanting to fool with the stock regulator any more, I decided this was the straw that broke the camel's back.
A few weeks before, I got a fuel pressure gauge from ISSPRO. It showed that the fuel pulses a lot.
The stock pump on a dead cold start (-10 to about 35) would maintain about 45-50psi, and the pressure would increase with engine temperature up to about 65psi. It would hold 65psi unless I really stepped on it.
The worst part about the stock pump was that on a cold engine (running 1-3 minutes) turning 2000rpm in 2nd gear, TC locked, the FP would drop to less than 45psi. The same was true for a warm engine on a WOT blast in 2nd & 3rd gear. Never got to try it in OD with the gauge.

So here are a few pictures and most of my BOM for the system.

Keeps dual tanks:



Fuel heater and Fuel pump relays & wiring:




I used the old fuel heater wire as the power to the relay coils. This is hot in run or start. Power for the relay contacts comes from the stud on the side of the fuse box, and each wire has a 30 amp fuse, one wire for each relay.



Bracket, filters, & pump:



More to come.
 
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#3 ·
As you can see from the pictures, I used the stock hard lines up to the engine. I didn't even have to cut a hose on the truck to install the filters and pump. I removed the hose from the selector valve where it was clamped onto the steel tube.
I used the stock return hoses from the engine and adapted them to a rubber hose that runs to the regulator. From the regulator it's a rubber hose to the stock return steel line, and stock plumbing all the way back to the tank.
Most of this project should have used 5/16" hose. The only place that required 3/8" is the section that goes from the delivery line on the engine to the banjo fitting. But due to some less than stellar planning, the hoses on the filters and pump are a mix of 5/16 and 3/8". Hence the section of steel tubing in a few of the pictures.

BOM to come.
 
#4 ·
Bill of Materials

1 15402-BLK Fuellab fuel regulator 35-90psi - black 139.99 139.99 Diesel Innovations Costs less than the Aeromotive regulator, a pleasant surprise!
7 H20106 3/8 hose 1.74 12.18 HFI Fluid Products
2 10006B-106AB 3/8 NPT male to 3/8 barb 1.61 3.22 HFI Fluid Products brass
2 10006B-108AB 1/2 NPT male to 3/8 barb 2.05 4.10 HFI Fluid Products brass
1 C3239-12-8 -12 SAE o-ring female to 1/2npt male 18.49 18.49 HFI Fluid Products AISI 12L14 carbon steel, zinc coating
1 10008B-206AB 1/2 NPT female to 3/8 barb 2.29 2.29 HFI Fluid Products brass
1 FIL4770 filter base 42.6482 42.65 NAPA Aluminum
1 FIL3528 Filter (final) 17.5932 17.59 NAPA 2 micron
10 705-1226 5/16 hose clamps 1.639 16.39 NAPA
10 705-1227 3/8 hose clamps 1.639 16.39 NAPA
5 H-205 5/16 fuel injection hose 8.6292 43.15 NAPA
1 Fuel pump 70 70.00 Mr. Bob Stock 7.3L SD fuel pump
3 100006 -6 straight hose end Al 7.32 21.96 MPH
3 850-6 -6 port fitting steel 1.74 5.22 MPH
1 IHP006 -6 internal hex plug 6.26 6.26 MPH
1 1/4" nuts, bolts, washers 1.28 1.28 menards
3 steel plates 7.38 22.14 menards
1 2750226 30 amp relay 6.79 6.79 Radio Shack only needed one for pump
1 2701234 fuse holder 2.69 2.69 Radio Shack only needed one for pump
1 2301085 3pk 30A fuses 1.99 1.99 Radio Shack pump only
1 526681 Permatex #2 sealant 3.69 3.69 AutoZone
1 3813029 7/8" freeze plug 0.75 0.75 NAPA
2 EC23 Relay holders 10.4652 20.93 NAPA pump & heater
1 3649615 Black 12ga wire 12 feet 5.95 5.95 Menards pump only
1 3648129 Red 12ga wire 12 feet 5.95 5.95 Menards pump only
1 FS1241K pre pump fuel/water seperator & fuel heater 0 0.00 Ralph >10 yrs old, NIB
2 3300X4 adapter fitting 2.9052 5.81 NAPA
2 48X4X4 .250 tube connector 1.8252 3.65 NAPA
2 05705b-104 5/16 hose ID fitting 3.2292 6.46 NAPA

You probably won't be able to find the same pre-pump filter that I used, because it has been discontinued. Replacement filters are available, but I don't think the head or heater is anymore. It was given to my by a guy at work who had it for several years and never used it.

My total cost: ~$510 USD
 
#5 ·
I haven't gotten a chance to test a WOT run yet, but the testing so far is very, very promising.
The pump took a while to prime, but once it did the truck started on the first key crank cycle.
The system maintains pressure pretty well too. By the time the fuel pressure gauge has reset the needle and the backlight has ramped up, the pressure is over 40psi. By the time the WTS light goes out (15-20 deg F ambient), the pressure is up to 65psi.
So far I have not been able to get the pressure to budge from 65psi where I set it.
I can hear the pump when I first turn the key on, but once the engine starts, it is drowned out.

If you want to get the banjo fitting, I *highly* reccomend HFI Fluid Power Products. They're just up the street from me and are great people to deal with. http://www.hfifluidpowerproducts.com/
Make sure to get the -12 O-ring for the fitting also. I didn't trust the stock washers to seal so I stuck the o-ring in there and it is working great.

I got my AN fittings from MPH back home. http://www.mphindy.com/
This is the 2nd project I've dealt with them on, and they are extremely helpful.

Thanks to David at DI for the surprise! I called and ordered a FPR, and thought I was getting the Aeromotive regulator. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw that the FuelLab regulator is almost $100 less than the regulator on the website.
THANKS DAVID!


I guess I should mention that I don't intend for this to support a lot of power. I wanted it to be simple, easy to service, reliable, and leak free. Messing with running new lines to the back of the heads would have been too much work, hence the use of the banjo fitting.
If I ever max out the single pump, I can easily add a 2nd stock SD pump, or put in a single aftermarket pump.

If you have questions, fire away. I'll answer as best I can.
 
#6 ·
I know this mod is expensive and takes time if you do it yourself but I think it's one of the better mods you can do for the OBS trucks. The stock fuel system seems so complicated compared to the simplicity of the electrical fuel system. Nice writeup and pics. I hope more people will do this mod. :poke:
 
#7 ·
Dan,
Looks great! I'll probably do something similar when my stock pump dies, or if I ever put sticks in my truck and start running out of fuel!

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
#8 ·
I've also been thinking about this mod. It really cleans up the valley [lus you can never have too much fuel. Great write up
 
#10 ·
Dan, looks good.

I am currently wrapping up a similar project, am excited to see how it works! :ford:

-Matt
 
#18 ·
Airdog is only rated for about 10-20 psi at most. It is a lift pump to provide constant positive fuel pressure to a high pressure (CR or mechanical injection) pump. The 7.3 and 6.0l Power Stroke engines need more than that to run correctly. Most 7.3s seem to do best around 65psi.

In answer to your question, oh heck yeah. The airdog can't do what my installation does.
 
#17 ·
It's been a year since I looked at the commercially available e-fuel systems, but IIRC there weren't any complete systems available for less than a grand. I don't think the Airdog 150 comprises a complete system, in fact if my memory is right, that pump alone wouldn't meet our pressure needs (but don't quote me, I could be wrong!!)

I did my system for around $350. Of course, I'm able to weld and fabricate brackets as necessary so that was a significant savings over buying a commercial system.
 
#19 ·
It's been a year (and right at 12,000 miles) since I installed this system, and it has been great. I literally have not changed a thing or had to fix anything on it at all in that time. Also, (and this is my favorite part) it is has not leaked a drop.

The fuel pressure has never dropped less than 65psi, even at wot at any speed.
 
#20 ·
You've got room to grow on Injectors too, my stock SD fuel pump drops from 66-65psi down around 62-63psi at WOT with 200/30% hybrids. I haven't quite had my system a year yet, but it's got about 10k miles on it

-Michael
 
#22 ·
Sweet setup...I ordered that fitting today.
 
#24 ·
Not to derail, but could someone explain to me what all of the lines in this pic are for? I believe that the hard metal lines should be supply and return, and the banjo fitting in the back is feed to the heads, but what are the flexible lines up front for. Sorry for the ignorance.
Empty & plugged valley:
 
#25 ·
The steel line pointing to the back of the engine is the feed from the tanks. It used to go to the mechanical fuel pump, but now goes straight to the banjo fitting.

The steel line pointing up with the rubber hose on it is the return to the tanks. This line is now connected to the outlet of the FPR.

The two lines with fitting on them are the return from the head. These are now connected to the inlets of the FPR.
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the explaination Cowboy Dan.
 
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