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It doesn't like to hook back to back?

4K views 49 replies 18 participants last post by  cowboy_dan 
#1 ·
If you try to pull before a cool down it has no rpm's and pops. I'm looking for ideas. Like it did before the recent mods, BO, SHO's, springs and push rods. I'm running Syn 15/40 Amsoil.

The truck took a third last night in Deep Creek Md. It's running the best that it has to date. The Fuelab pump and new tunes from Jody are very strong.
 
#3 ·
That's what I'm thinking. I only have the stock idiot gauge. If it sets for 30 minutes it's fine. I pulled the second and third class pretty much back to back. There may have been ten or fifteen minutes between but I never shut it off. It actually set a SES lamp. I need to get to the shop to scan it.
 
#4 ·
Kevin, I know that I tried running amsoil with my twin pumps and it sucked. Honestly I could feel the difference between it and rotella that I am running now. Take it for what its worth because that is just street use, no pulling, dyno, or racing using the two oils.
 
#6 ·
Even though my understanding of hydraulics pales in comparison to most people's.... :lookaround:


I recently switched from Rotella synthetic to Schaeffers 7000 and picked up between 5 and 15 psi across the board.

I'll never go back. Course I actually have issues with oil aeration even though nobody else apparently does.


And FWIW, a SES light doesn't sound like an oil issue. But losing rpm and missing/popping directly after a high rpm pull does.
 
#10 ·
I have used Schaeffers 9000 but I must say I am pretty impressed with the 7000 that is in there now. I have about 8000 miles on it and it still feels as strong as the day it went in.
 
#7 ·
Nope just regular 15w-40. I would love to run something different but I dont know where to get ahold of any Schafers around here. Oil temps and conventional oil make me worry sometimes.
 
#11 ·
Haha yea we use a green oil in the new equipment at work so some dumb a$$'es cant screw things up by adding the wrong oil in the hydraulic systems.
 
#12 ·
I love it. I have developed an ear for when the oil gets aerated now, and this stuff just fights it off like crazy. Lube oil pressure stays higher in any situation.

I'm impressed.


Don't know if that has anything to do with Kevin's issue, but the schaeffers does work better than the Rotella I've run for years.
 
#13 ·
Charles, exactly or close to it what is it that you hear or notice when your oil becomes arated?
 
#14 ·
Can't describe it really. It's like a light very faint "plinking" sound. If you weren't listening for it you would never hear it. And never while under power. I can usually hear it when coasting and the engine's silent but the revs are still up and the oil is aerated.

Having a cracked pickup tube for a few years really let me see and feel just exactly what aerated engine oil does to everything.

I think it's actually coming from the high pressure pump(s). Bob has heard it on his bench as well. Obviously on the bench he doesn't have any engine noise to distract from the pump sounds.

Although I don't know where the sound comes from, it is always correlated to lower lube oil pressures and having recently made some hard high rpm pulls. I have never once heard it right after an oil change on fresh oil. It gets worse the more miles are on the oil. It almost sounds metallic.

If I hadn't just switched to the Schaeffers I would see if I could capture it with the camera, although it may be to faint for that.
 
#16 ·
I have been tempted to use it year round as the pour point is very close to the 9000 but sometimes our winters can be colder than a witch's tit and not starting when it has been cold soaked overnight at the road end is not my idea of a good time.
 
#17 ·
i use regular rotella t and have never had any problem makin a pass as first puller and comin back 4 or 5 trucks later, w/ maybe ten min in between.
 
#22 ·
I like to start at no less than 3800. Works well for me to get the tires turning. I may have to put a line lock in to hold it without using the clutch.
 
#21 ·
Hooked again tonight and I may have figured it out. Last night the track had a slight up hill grade to it. The manual trucks had to slide the clutch from the start to keep it from drifting. As the night went on a slight hump developed at the starting line and the truck would set there. Tonight the starting line was slightly down hill. Last pull last night and the pull today it popped. What I think is happening is when you have to slide the clutch from the start the pcm is getting a boost reading before you reach the starting rpm and increasing the fuel - no popping.
 
#23 ·
ok well maybe it was just coincidence but when i blew a hpo line i was cruisin at 3800 for quite a few seconds like 10 or so??
 
#25 ·
No Joey to be honest I never thought about it. I have another SB clutch on it's way out. That's all I had on my mind tonight. At the end of the track there is almost no pedal. Even on the street if you try to shift around 3k the pedal is real soft. When you spool it on the line you can feel the pedal effort go away. It's like it pulls the pedal away from you. This one lasted 12 hooks. I could see it if I came out at 6k and slid it way out but I don't. The last one lasted 11 hooks and they replaced it.
 
#27 ·
Not really. This is my third soon to be fourth. The truck is running great. Get the clutch straightened out and a couple new skins and hopefully it will be good for a while.
 
#28 ·
Which SB clutch are you running?
 
#30 ·
I was told by a Ford engineer 6 years ago to not run the oil level at full. He said that the crankshaft was playing in the oil at the full mark and would cause foaming or oil areation as he called it. His recommendation was half way between the add and full mark. I do know that the Ford dealer in El Paso over filled mine one time and I had oil everywhere on the trip back to Houston. I gave him 4 gallon of oil and realized about half way home that I didn't get any back. He must have put it all in.
 
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