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Cat ELC

9K views 15 replies 14 participants last post by  Gooch 
#1 ·
Just wondering who is running it and any thoughts on it. Thinking of flushing the system and putting the Cat ELC in. Thanks
 
#2 ·
I run it, and really like it. I did just a water flush, but they reccomend using the cat flush.. (I had no way to get it, my waterpump took a dive on me so i had no choice.) seems to be working really well though.

-Chris
 
#4 ·
I use it.. works great and its not expensive for me :D my dad is a cat dealer
 
#8 ·
It's good stuff.

All of the HD ELC's from Cummins, Detroit, CAT, etc. are pretty decent stuff. I run a lot of the CAT brand right now because I get a good deal on it.
 
#9 ·
so with these I dont have to add the ELC right?And ELC and SCA addative are the same thing correct? sorry i dont know much about coolant. And how many gallons do i need altogether. I got a new engine so it doesnt need flushed just filled.
 
#10 ·
Extended Life Coolant......Supplemental Coolant Additive



ElC has the cavitation inhibitors already in it, can go something like 500,000 miles with a recharge...read the bottles....I use Fleetrite Navistar version.


Green ethylene glycol coolant needs the SCA to add and maintain the cavitation inhibitors and to maintain properly you need to use test strips and be sure not to over dose the system as it will fall out and eat your water pump.
 
#11 ·
how do you flush a system to get it ready for ELC? Is it just a matter of taking the hoses lose from the radiator and flushing out with a garden hose? or is it more indepth? thanks i would also like to switch to the red ELC
 
#13 ·
Get a prestone flush kit, 2 shopping carts full of distilled water and maybe a new t-stat.

Drain radiator and block, replug, remove t-stat, replave t-stat housing, cut heater hose that goes from core to top of WP and install the Prestone adapter, attach garden hose, fill until water gets to degass bottle with the engine running to circulate....drain block and radiator. Do that several times until a clear glass jar shows no sign of Green coolant.

Once clear....repeat with all the distilled water a couple times.


Depending on if you get pre-mixed ELC or concentrate will determine if you need to save some distilled to mix with concentrate. Replace t-stat before adding new coolant.


IIRC 4 gallons concentrate and the rest distilled water...about 4 gallons worth.
 
#14 ·
the stuff i can get is premixed cat ELC. Thats a lot of stuff just to get the old green stuff out. I cant beleive you cant take the t stat out and flush it manualy with a hose. seems like you could but i guess mabey you have to get every drop of coolant out? BTW whats the deal with the distilled water?
 
#15 ·
Thats a lot of stuff just to get the old green stuff out. I cant beleive you cant take the t stat out and flush it manualy with a hose. BTW whats the deal with the distilled water?
If you remove the thermostat, block drain plugs, lower hose, and a heater hose, you can rinse it out with a water hose without running the engine.

Those flush kits are intended to be used without removing anything except the radiator cap while running the engine.

Distilled water is better than tap water because of less mineral content. Unless you have some nasty well water your engine and radiator won't know the difference. I wouldn't be concerned about a distilled water flush but I would use it for the final fill.
 
#16 ·
Here's a coolant flush procedure I wrote a couple of years ago that was a sticky on the "other" site I was banned from. LOL. It's extensive and thorough, and not as bad as it looks. Most folks like it....


Gooch's Flushing Procedure

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate.

*Tip* Do not use 50/50 pre-mixed coolant. After flushing, residual water will remain in your engine and cooling system that you can't get out. Therefore, adding pre-mixed 50/50 will further dilute the solution and yield a weak freeze point, along with a low level of corrosion and cavitation inhibitors. Your cooling system holds approximately 8 gallons. Adding 4 gallons of concentrate after flushing, and then topping off with distilled water, will ensure optimal protection.

*Tip* International who made your engine, and who's engine your Ford cooling system was designed around, recommended a Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolant (HD ELC) for all 2/2/99-up built engines (SN 940614-up). These are generally red coolants with operation lives of 300K-750K miles/6-8 years, depending on brand. They are very robust and require no maintenace or additives. Popular brands include International's Fleetrite ELC, Shell Rotella ELC, CAT ELC, Chevron Delo ELC, Peak Final Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty ELC, Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty, etc.

*Tip* Due to International's compatibility tests, all pre-2/2/99 build engines (pre-SN 940614) should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA). Most conventional coolants will be green, "low-silicate" and meet ASTM D4985. There are too many brands to list. They will require the addition of a supplemental coolant additive (SCA) at initial fill and maintenance of that SCA thereafter. Most pre-charged conventional coolants will be pink, purple, or blue and meet ASTM D6210. These coolants do not require an initial dose of SCA, but will require SCA maintenance thereafter. These are coolants like Peak Fleet Charge, Prestone Heavy Duty, Zerex Precharge, Shell Diesel Ready, Fleetguard Fleetcool, Fleetrite Fully Formulated, and so on.

*Tip* Do not use "All Makes - All Models" coolants, or "Universal" coolants. They will not meet the needs of your diesel engine.


SCA (if using conventional non-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

*Tip* Either a Nitrite only DCA-2 SCA or a Molybdate/Nitrite DCA-4 SCA will work.


Up to 20 gallons of distilled water

*Tip* Tap water contains undesirable minerals, chemicals, and pH. If your tap water is good quality, you can do fewer distilled water flushes.


A Prestone flush kit with 5/8" "T". HERE is a photo of a NAPA #720-1286 5/8" flush kit with "T".

*Tip* The "T" regulates and restricts faucet flow. Directly connecting to your faucet without one of these "T's" could damage your cooling system.


1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").
A new thermostat gasket. OEM Part# F4TZ-8255-A


*Tip* Now might be a good time to consider replacing:

Thermostat (OEM Part #F6TZ-8575-EA)
Thermostat housing (OEM Part# F81Z-8592-AA)
Upper radiator hose that goes around serpentine belt (OEM Part# F81Z-8260-CA)
Lower Radiator hose (OEM Part# YC32-8286-CE)
Degas bottle cap (OEM Part# F6DZ-8100-A)
New coolant filter (if you've added one)
Any hose clamps that you feel should be replaced.


Tools needed:

3/4" wrench for drain plug
8mm socket with rachet and extension for thermostat housing bolts
1/4" socket driver for block plugs
Pliers for hose clamps
Torque wrench to re-torque thermostat housing bolts
Emery cloth to clean thermostat housing and hose connections
Bucket and suitable catch containers.
Funnel

*Tip* A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Use 3/4" wrench to losen Radiator Drain Valve (bottom left-hand driver's side). Drain into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove Lower Radiator Hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove Driver's Side Block Plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove Passenger's Side Block Plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

*Tip* This is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter.

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator drain valve.

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing and running engine).

Remove Heater Hose At Passenger's Side Coming Off The Engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the 5/8" flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T", Like This.

Install the remaining end of the 5/8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from the engine.

*Tip* You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired. The heater hose removed in this procedure is the one consistent with what you'll find on the flush "T" directions. However, you could install the "T" on either heater hose.

Install garden hose onto flush "T", noting the Direction Of Flow stamped on the "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint). Minor water leaks and spray from fan are normal.

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose back onto engine.

Close radiator drain valve, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator drain, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator at drain valve, remove both block plugs.

*Tip* You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad.

Close radiator drain valve permanently. Do not over-tighten.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently and firmly. Sealant can be used on the plugs sparingly, but it is not necessary.

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket. If reusing the thermostat housing, use emery cloth to clean any rust/corrosion before installing.

Carefully torque the thermostat housing bolts to a maximum 15 ft-lbs. Do not over-tighten.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help you determine if the thermostat is operating or if there is air left in the system.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. It is always best to have the freeze/boil protection tested with a quality refractometer. Most shops will do this free.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use. :)
 
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