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Troubleshooting a No-Start condition
This list is not all-inclusive, but it will give you a good start at figuring out your No-Start condition.
Troubleshooting a NO-START:
1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).
2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.
3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?
4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?
5. Starter relay connections - all good?
6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?
7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.
8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). needs to see 500 rpm minimum to start .
9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The relay is labled Relay #304. Check it specifically.
10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - )? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.
11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.
12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump ( ), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.
13. Check and connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any or harness chaffing? More detail below.
14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.
16. Inspect the sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the and try again. The will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely.
17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper ( ) cycling procedure before cranking.
18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.
19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 ( ) and relay 304 ( ) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
TO CHECK FOR SUCTION LINE PLUGGING:
The pump vacuum test is refered to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."
20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.
21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure ( sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.
22. Pull the valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the sensor hose and the tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.
23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.
24. Carry out the Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.
25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.
26. A bad fan clutch or shorted wiring to the fan clutch will keep it from cranking. Unplug the fan clutch and see if it'll crank. If unplugging the fan clutch doesn't help, then try this: Locate the wire to the starter solenoid (yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump - it has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection) ..... you can unplug it and get it to reach the positive battery terminal and try to start it that way.
Another good checklist:
Wire Chaffing Locations:http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...1&d=1208412696
and harness recall
(in the link above you may have to copy and past the address in your web browser to access the video from Ford.
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARPs OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Balljoints;RACCCV6000;Updated HPOP fitting;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;plugs&standpipes;Fumo to;Harpooned;Quadzilla XZT Fuel Press;Blue spring;DashDAQ;PHP_FICM; RiffRaff boots;DCPower250A w/ Inverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;BPD WaterPump;SCT Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra w/ filter;SynchroMax
Re: Troubleshooting a No-Start condition
Hard start - no start conditions related to thecould be attributed to the following components in the high pressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):
Weak ? - Ford Truck Fanatics
Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting (05 and up model years)
Leaky or cracked branch tube
Leak with the stand pipe
Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)
Leak in the d-rings of the oil rail front port plugs (or dummy plugs)
Leaky o-ring on an injector; or leak at the top of the injector where the ball tube from the high pressure oil rail connects to the injector.
Weak or failed itself
Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - ).
TROUBLESHOOT THE HPO PRESSURE SYSTEM:
(link broken - will try to track down the new URL)
Determinimg if the sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum:
2006 6.0L w/ 35K miles will not start ... - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
If possible, you can pull the and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 ) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.
Note - the orientation of the wires are as follows:
Reference orientation - harness connector clip on the bottom, with the connector facing away from you, and wires coming towards you.
Top wire: db-lg
Bottom left wire: bn-wh
Bottom right wire: gy-rd
Low pressure oil test procedure.
Using a suitable adapter (such as Aeroquip® 2022-4-4S), install it in the engine oil pressure sensor hole to carry out the base oil pressure test.
Install gauge to check the base oil pressure. The minimum engine oil pressure specifications are 82.7 kPa (12 ) at 700 rpm, 165.5 kPa (24 ) at 1,200 rpm and 310.3 kPa (45 ) at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature.
Re: Troubleshooting a No-Start condition
PROCEDURE TO PRESSURE CHECK THE HPO SYSTEM W/ SHOP AIR (100 psig)
See the video below starting about at 6:00 minutes.
How willing are you to remove the , turbo, intake manifold, and the cooler to get to the cover and itself for troubleshooting?
One way to diagnose for an leak without a teardown: Remove the sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the is on the passenger side valve cover). You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting . You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the , but only for 30 seconds or it will burn out."
"You should be able to remove the harness without removing the turbo.
Remove the coolant reservoir and take the and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the . Be VERY careful w/ the connectors!
To command the valve - you can use an old connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 30 seconds not to damage the . Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-."
"Remove the oil fill cap, remove the hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the or STC fitting. Note - when the is commanded closed, you should here a slight ""POP"" sound.
If is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad valve.
should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high."
There is a hole that is situated just above the drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is possibly bad.
should be around 10% - 15% DC @KOEO
should be around 84% DC when cranking. I believe this can be as high as 1900 psig
should be 22-24% at hot idle (MAYBE as high as 30%)
0.15 - 0.35v (typical is 0.19-.24v) , no pressure registering on my HPO gauge
0.19 to 0.9v cranking - as high as 1900 psig though
0.80-0.85v at hot idle - around 500 - 580 psig (anything over a volt, then it is time to start looking).
The (injection control pressure regulator) is duty cycled by the . One side of the two wire connector should have B+ on it and should be load tested rather than using a voltmeter as the pinpoint test is likely to suggest. You can use an ohmeter to test continuity through the itself (should be between 3 and 15 ohms) but a better test would be to feed it B+ and a known good ground and feel/listen for the click. I believe it is rare for these to fail electrically.
If is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad valve.
Do a slow run up in park to 4000 rpms. If the truck starts to break up and run rough between 3000-4000 rpms and/or the rpms exceed 4000 rpms then the is suspect.
A vref short is something that can cause an engine to shutdown unexpectedly. The most common location is at the . Disconnect it and see what happens. Also possible (again the more common issues): failed valve; failed valve; failed injector coil. Also possible would be an injector leaking combustion gass back into the fuel system.
, , , , APP, and
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