If you have the 4 post FICM (remove little cover on top below are 4 or 7 screws). Check the voltage on the screw closest to the fender and ground if less than 45 volts engine running you most likely can repair it yourself and no reprogramming needed (dont touch probe from screw to the case).
Remove FICM from truck. Remove the following; small cover on top of ficm, 4 screws that are under cover, 6 screw on other side holding case together. Split case. Re solder places circled in pics. Put back together and check volts.
Just curios if you could share the technique you used to identify the problematic solder joints? I'm currently having the FICM low voltage problem and I noticed you only 're-soldered' half of the solder joints on the caps ? In your picture you circled the outer joints on the caps witch have to joints/cap and you didn't re-solder the inner joints?
Yes it should be both legs of the caps. Make sure to solder the resistors on the other side. I only solder the caps first and gained 10 v. When I resoldered the resistors on the other side I was back to 48V.
Thank you for the reply. On my board, the resistors are completely covered in some amber looking coating, it's translucent though so I can see the them. Did you test the connectivity to the board in anyway to determine what needed to re-soldered?
Make sure you use an ESD ground strap when touching any part where components are present. We are getting into the cold season and elctro-static energy is allways higher in cold weather..
Look for threads on FICM and no-start/hard starting. FICM failures causing hard start/cold start/no start problems. Apparently in some cases it's due to failure of some solder joints on the power supply.
I look mine out and reflowed and added solder on everything I could.. I had cold starting problems until I did this.. A good indication of this being a problem is the truck starts good one day and the next day it starts like crap at the same temp.. I think it is due to insuffient solder on some of the components and when the temp's drop to 35F or so things srink a bit and cause a bad connection between components that are not solderer properly. That's my theory anyway.. It worked for me.. If you don't know how to solder, you can mess things up.. So be careful.
I use a Metcal iron and I set it at 700F. Seemed just right..
It worked intermittently for me. Right after the truck would start cold and run perfectly, but after a short time the FICM would return to it's previous state. To avoid dealing the flash headaches, I just replaced the power supply and retained my logic board. The truck runs perfectly now.
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