I'm sure this question has been asked before... But is there any aftermarket exhaust (manifold back) that doesn't require you to smash your firewall in with a sledge hammer for installation...? Or as they say... Alter your firewall... I'm not sure Ive ever seen such a ridiculous colaboration of pancaked pipes! What was Ford thinkin? I'd like to rid of this nonsense and wake this bitch up!
I have heard of people on here not having issues due to how far the engine is set up in it's mounts, and how the cab is mounted. You might be able to slide the engine forward enough to get the dp to clear, but I am not sure on this. I just used a porta-power and moved it a bit and tired the pipe then moved it a little again and so on......
Hmm... A body lift? Sounds like a good idea... Would I need to go a full 3" or would 2" work? Does the exhaust clear everything with the body lift installed? Or is there still going to be a passenger in my truck wondering why his shoes are melting from the pipe sticking out of my floor???
All you really need to do is cut down, or fold over the pinch weld seam, and you'll have plenty of room. I wouldn't say I smashed my firewall. "Massaged" is a little more accurate. I use a combination of dremel, pry bars, 2x4's, baseball bat, and a 3lb hammer.
It's not that bad.
It wont be manifold back as there are up-pipes to the turbo, it will be a turboback exhaust, also you dont need to "smash the firewall" or use a sledge hammer. Most people use a pry bar, port-a-power, a baseball bat works great too, its not that hard of an install.
As others have mentioned, what's the big deal of smashing the firewall? It's not like you're putting a huge hole in it, as Nodge said all you're doing is bending the pinchweld on the bottom of the firewall. It's not that big of a deal once you get the stock pipe out, the pinch weld will be staring you straight in the face, and then it's straight-forward. As was mentioned above, OBS's are known to have different engine placements
(forward or back), so you may not have to alter the firewall even that much. Just make sure you do the firewall before you put the downpipe in the first time...ask me how I know :doh:.
Man... I've heard of some completely opposite results... I heard it was an absolute nightmare... I guess I wont really know until I try it on my own truck. Who makes the best DP setup? And what does it cost?
I have the de 2 piece and it slid in with no modification to the firewall, I suppose I had the perfect combination of cab/engine placement on the chassis. Price was good for the de I purchased the complete exhaust but I think there less than $200 separate. Their are plenty of venders on here that would be glad to help, find someone and then shoot them a pm....As for performance as brad said it's more of a helper item...
i didnt have a problem at all. the hard part was going to home depot after killing my old sawsall blade. i got a new blade it was off then slid my new one in. when i did my engine swap we made a little more clearance, but over all not hard at all
i got a TYMAR.... it off being cermic coated now but should be back soon. ive heard these are one of the best fitting DPs out there.... they are the only ones that are 3"-3.5"-4" as soon as clearance is provided
i got a TYMAR.... it off being cermic coated now but should be back soon. ive heard these are one of the best fitting DPs out there.... they are the only ones that are 3"-3.5"-4" as soon as clearance is provided
I'm looking for a downpipe for my 97, and don't really know what I'm doing.
Looking for one that will bolt to the stock exhaust. I'll probably just do a cat or muffler delete. Is one piece the way to go? I'm seeing MBRP on Summit for $89. Thoughts?
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