monstered 02-15-2011, 04:53 PM getting ready to stud my truck and looking at ordering a mkm customs kit. but which one does the shop doing need to replace all the gaskets offered in the master kit. Am i better off just getting studs and delete kit and letting them take care of the rest? the quote for removing heads and checking them is $1300 labor+fluids no parts. interested in what you guys did.
6.0Pwrstroke 02-15-2011, 05:02 PM :popcorn:
monstered 02-15-2011, 05:04 PM roger 6.0 i kinda feel over whelmed with deciding i dont wanna spend too much but wanna cover all my bases
kyle43335 02-15-2011, 06:28 PM roger 6.0 i kinda feel over whelmed with deciding i dont wanna spend too much but wanna cover all my bases
i hope your guy has a clue about what hes doing,with that engine.
slowleak 02-15-2011, 06:31 PM sounds to me like you need a different shop doing your work
TAMU_PSD 02-15-2011, 06:33 PM sounds to me like you need a different shop doing your work
LOL, X2
monstered 02-15-2011, 06:49 PM ive only talked to them a bit i just emailed them yesterday about the parts im wanting to order they are a reputable shop in the area.and they are an hour away so i cant just go over there and talk things over.
btw thanks for any input????? i was not asking about the shop doing this. im asking about the parts and what you guys have done
monstered 02-15-2011, 07:25 PM well i went through and priced out all the parts included in mkms master kit and can purchase everything minus the turbo o-ring and bolt kit for $1300
Lubbockguy1979 02-15-2011, 08:26 PM Studs can be had for $398 shipped. Oil coolers for around $180. "Black onyx" gaskets lol $110. Turbo hardware, intake gaskets and injector orings for less that 150 pretty easily. You will need a oil cooler screen which I believe is about 15-20 bucks from ford or international. Add in a fuel regulator rebuild kit for about 50-60 bucks. New coolant, oil and fuel filters, and oil should add a couple hundred to that. plus a egr delete which could depend on what you do there. I had most of the stuff at one time and I think minus fluids, and filters I had about 800 wrapped up in it,
monstered 02-15-2011, 08:45 PM thanks lubbock i appreciate the input. between here and tds i know you know what your doing and talking about.
no emissions here so bye bye egr
monstered 02-15-2011, 08:49 PM 6.0Pwrstroke what kind of mpgs you getting. on extreme street i get about 18-19 on the highway and any tire rub on the leaf springs?
Lubbockguy1979 02-15-2011, 08:56 PM thanks lubbock i appreciate the input. between here and tds i know you know what your doing and talking about.
no emissions here so bye bye egr
thanks, why not weld the egr cooler and save the 150+ entrance fee for the kit? it helps cut down the cost. depending on how quick you need the parts you can find really good deals on the parts by hunting ebay, craigslist and on the forums.
04stroker 02-15-2011, 09:03 PM I would weld the cooler and uppipe instead of buyin the delete to save some money. Or buy yourself a solid upipe and weld the cooler.
monstered 02-15-2011, 09:51 PM i would be all for welding it being as my brother owns a welding shop here in town but driving an hour each way to the truck kinda doesnt pay unless the motor will be apart for a day or two.but thanks for the suggestion. i dont mind paying for the parts just dont wanna get screwed over. i am still learning about 6.0. i think a powermax is in the future this summer for it and maybe nos if my setup allows it?
Lubbockguy1979 02-15-2011, 09:59 PM Go by the ford dealer and talk to a tech. See if they will give you a bad one. That's what I did. Dosent matter if it is welded up at that point
monstered 02-15-2011, 11:42 PM never even thought of that super idea and that would give me a reason to get banjos and the spring upgrade
wetnsloppy4x 02-15-2011, 11:56 PM You guys recomending to weld the cooler realize that the cooler can still rupture and sent coolant into the motor, right???
Edit: We all posted the same time it seems. Lubbock, you have me thinking you somehow did something to the coolant side as well.:confused:
Johnboy3 02-15-2011, 11:56 PM No.
04stroker 02-15-2011, 11:57 PM How is that? If you have a good tig weld with freeze plugs.
Lubbockguy1979 02-16-2011, 12:06 AM Get stainless plate cut 2 circles out. Tig weld them to the exhaust sides on the front and back. Pressure test and install. If the cooler ruptures it will fill the cavity and you will not have a issue. It would basically be added cooling capacity.
Very simple method looks stock and is cheaper than a delete. If you weld it up there is no place for the coolant to leak.
lubeowner 02-16-2011, 12:10 AM That is what we have been doing since 2004. I just have two metal rods, each end is different size. Cut a 1/4" piece off the rod and then weld it in. Done hundred this way.
wetnsloppy4x 02-16-2011, 12:11 AM How is that? If you have a good tig weld with freeze plugs.
Easier said than done sometimes.:hehe:
Seriously, so you're talking about plugging both ends? OK. I've seen it advocated to weld the up pipe side in the past. ASSuming get you in trouble.
It's not the method I'd go with for LONG TERM peace of mind, but you can't argue with the savings.
Johnboy3 02-16-2011, 12:11 AM If you weld up both sides of the egr cooler, there is no way that coolant can get into the intake blown cooler or not. So that is not the concern with a welded cooler.
The problem is that if the cooler is blown, all the exhaust soot and crud that is trapped in the cooler is now getting circulated into the coolant system as it breaks free. We used to weld up blown coolers a while back but quickly realized we may be causing more coolant problems in the future. It probably still would be ok if the cooler isn't blown. A full egr delete is truly the only sure way to make sure there are no problems in the future.
04stroker 02-16-2011, 12:20 AM If you weld up both sides of the egr cooler, there is no way that coolant can get into the intake blown cooler or not. So that is not the concern with a welded cooler.
The problem is that if the cooler is blown, all the exhaust soot and crud that is trapped in the cooler is now getting circulated into the coolant system as it breaks free. We used to weld up blown coolers a while back but quickly realized we may be causing more coolant problems in the future. It probably still would be ok if the cooler isn't blown. A full egr delete is truly the only sure way to make sure there are no problems in the future.
Agreed completly but if customers really want to weld it and it's leaking a little I'll have a machine shop put it in the hot tank and get some of the crud out. Obviously doesn't get it all out but helps alot.
lubeowner 02-16-2011, 12:22 AM If you weld up both sides of the egr cooler, there is no way that coolant can get into the intake blown cooler or not. So that is not the concern with a welded cooler.
The problem is that if the cooler is blown, all the exhaust soot and crud that is trapped in the cooler is now getting circulated into the coolant system as it breaks free. We used to weld up blown coolers a while back but quickly realized we may be causing more coolant problems in the future. It probably still would be ok if the cooler isn't blown. A full egr delete is truly the only sure way to make sure there are no problems in the future.
I would worry more about all the other stuff already in the cooling system then I would with some crud back flowing through a crack in a egr cooler. Kinda like pissing in a river trying to raise the level.
04stroker 02-16-2011, 12:22 AM Easier said than done sometimes.:hehe:
Seriously, so you're talking about plugging both ends? OK. I've seen it advocated to weld the up pipe side in the past. ASSuming get you in trouble.
It's not the method I'd go with for LONG TERM peace of mind, but you can't argue with the savings.
Yes not the long term peace of mind way to go but saves a bundle. But yes we clean them the best we can then weld both ends of the cooler, yes good tig weld is easier said than done LOL.
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