25 PSI of Fuel Pressure?

So I just installed my DiPricol gauges, and after installing the fuel pressured fitting and draining the fuel bowl we primed the fuel system, and let it idle for about 15 minutes. It read 25 PSI the entire time. Delve it about 15 miles, and it still read 25 PSI.

I didn't even know a 6.0 could run with that little bit of fuel pressure? Could it just be a worn out spring or air in the system? It still runs like a raped ape, but I'm not sure whats going on.

So I just installed my DiPricol gauges, and after installing the fuel pressured fitting and draining the fuel bowl we primed the fuel system, and let it idle for about 15 minutes. It read 25 PSI the entire time. Delve it about 15 miles, and it still read 25 PSI.

I didn't even know a 6.0 could run with that little bit of fuel pressure? Could it just be a worn out spring or air in the system? It still runs like a raped ape, but I'm not sure whats going on.

are you sure you have the right sending unit?

It came with my DiPricol gauges, it should be the correct one.

is it a 0-50psi sending unit or 0-100?

How do I tell? It came with my 0-100 PSI fuel pressure gauge.

They will run with that pressure, but the injectors will not be happy for long.

is it a 0-50psi sending unit or 0-100?

lol thats what i was wondering.

If you have an accurate reading of 25PSI, I would bet if you step on the throttle it go to 0 in no time. If your guage is holding at that pressure on full throttle, it is probably a bad reading.

I'm thinking it's a bad/worn out regulator spring. Therefore the constant pressure. The pump is able to keep up since the spring is only requiring 25 PSI. Does that sounds reasonable?

The pressure will read 25 PSI with key on, and then when the pump quits running it drops to zero.

I would hook up a known good mechanical FP gauge just to rule the gauge out. And if it is 25psi your never going to feel that in the truck, they wont run rough until about 5psi... Hell I drove mine about 3 miles with no fuel pressure after my FASS died.

Where can I find a good cheap mechanical gauge? It seems I've spent a lot on this truck recently. :doh:

TOVIC FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE 1/8PT (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/tofuprga1.html)

use the oil pressure gauge fromt he harbor fright cheap 3 gaguge pod. The manual says its 1/8 npt as well

Mini Triple Gauge Set - Dash Gauges - Automotive Motorcycle (http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/dash-gauges/mini-triple-gauge-set-65210.html)

Just a guess but could you have crossed the wires? dont know if it would cause your symtoms but couldnt hurt to check

It came pre-wired.

It has to be a false reading...there is no way a 6.0L can run smooth with only 25psi

Cranked it up today, and now its down to 20 PSI. I don't even know what to think. And I have popped the same intercooler boot off three times in the past two days. :doh:

This truck is costing me too much. LOL

It has to be a false reading...there is no way a 6.0L can run smooth with only 25psi

Believe me, it will run perfect. You will not feel 25psi. On my stock fuel system Eric's X-race would pull it down to 25, and it would still haze smoke and be at 1550 egt's. You won't even notice 0psi until you come to a stop, I know from experience:doh:

Cranked it up today, and now its down to 20 PSI. I don't even know what to think. And I have popped the same intercooler boot off three times in the past two days. :doh:

This truck is costing me too much. LOL

Time for some new boots, and be sure to clean off where it's popping off, otherwise it's going to keep doing it.

Well, I think maybe my pump is failing. It was making some weird noises this morning, and then I saw 20 PSI. It came up to 23 PSI, but I'm not sure what's going on.

And I cleaned the boot, and even used hairspray.

Well, I think maybe my pump is failing. It was making some weird noises this morning, and then I saw 20 PSI. It came up to 23 PSI, but I'm not sure.

Didn't see this mentioned earlier in the thread but when's the last time you changed your fuel filters? And if your pressure really is at 20ish I would get it fixed asap, injectors will cost you alot...

Yep, the fuel filters were only 5k old, but I am gonna replace them anyways. I am also gonna do the upgraded FPR spring at the same time, and if that doesn't work, I'm going to check everything with a mechanical gauge. If it still reads low, I guess I'll order a new fuel pump from Tasca Ford.

Yep, the fuel filters were only 5k old, but I am gonna replace them anyways. I am also gonna do the upgraded FPR spring at the same time, and if that doesn't work, I'm going to check everything with a mechanical gauge. If it still reads low, I guess I'll order a new fuel pump from Tasca Ford.

check with a mechanical gauge first. it could be as simple as changing the sending unit. no need to bump up your fuel pressure with that spring. i dont like that idea.

check with a mechanical gauge first. it could be as simple as changing the sending unit. no need to bump up your fuel pressure with that spring. i dont like that idea.

why?

why?

why try to jump his fuel pressure up when he doesnt know if thats the actual reading. its as easy as them putting the wrong sending unit in the box. its not my truck so do what you want. thats what i would do.

Why throw parts at it when you don't even know if there is anything wrong with it. It's not my money but seems stupid without diagnosing the problem

check with a mechanical gauge first. it could be as simple as changing the sending unit. no need to bump up your fuel pressure with that spring. i dont like that idea.
This.

why try to jump his fuel pressure up when he doesnt know if thats the actual reading. its as easy as them putting the wrong sending unit in the box. its not my truck so do what you want. thats what i would do.
This.

Why throw parts at it when you don't even know if there is anything wrong with it. It's not my money but seems stupid without diagnosing the problem
And this.

Although, in this situation, it's probably cheaper to get the regulator kit vs. buying a decent mechanical FP gauge.:doh:

Regardless, you have presented youself with an excuse to go out and buy tools!:poke:

I've dropped cash on tools with alot thinner excuses than yours.LOL

Bought some new tools today. :D

And I planned on doing the upgraded FPR kit anyways, so I figure I should throw it on while I check for leaks. I also probably need new fuel filters, as I don't know the history of the fuel filters before the last two changes. The first time I changed them I used NAPA filters an they clogged within 500 miles. :doh: Had it towed to the dealer, and it had me thinking the fuel pump died.

why try to jump his fuel pressure up when he doesnt know if thats the actual reading. its as easy as them putting the wrong sending unit in the box. its not my truck so do what you want. thats what i would do.


I thought it was an update because of the new style fuel filters?

Bought some new tools today. :D
Good deal!! Do work son!!

The first time I changed them I used NAPA filters an they clogged within 500 miles. :doh:
There's an interesting tidbit of info. Even a POS NAPA filter shouldn't clog in 500 miles without a good reason.

What did the dealer tell you clogged the filters? Just cause they were POS?

I'm wondering if something is going on in your tank.:confused:

Bad batch of fuel maybe?

Verify that you're actaully getting 25psi.......

They claimed it was caused by the aftermarket filter. I've learned better since then, and Motorcraft is what I use now. And yeah, the fuel quality here sucks, so who knows. I will eventually be adding an AD 150 so I will have more fuel and more filtration (4 filters).

Also, should I get the updated filters for $10 more? Or just go with the standard Racor filters.

Okay, so I just finished installing my AFE Stage 2, and I unscrewed the line to the gauge from the regulator. Let it point straight down and I tried to duck anything out of it. Screwed it back on with some Teflon tape, cranked her up and she read 35 PSI. I reattached it several more times and it read 34-35 PSI.

Gauge problem.

Okay, so I talked to Rick (smokeem, and a great guy to deal with), the guy I bought the gauges from, and this is what he told me to do:

Try unhooking the gauge and putting some antifreeze in the line. I had problems when I first installed them for similar problems. I just used a small syringe to put the antifreeze in the line.#

You have it ran from the regulate test port to the isolator and them to the gauge? You probably need to just fill the isolator and the tube. Try that and see what your pressure reads.

The isolator has a diaphram in it so you don't have fuel come into the cab. Unhook the line from the isolator to the gauge and fill the isolator and the hook it back up and fill the tube then hook it up. You might have to bleed some of the air out of the line also.#

I just pulled the gauge put of the pod and loosened the gauge and started the truck and tightened the gauge back on as the cloud started comming out

So your gauge is mechanical? I wonder if you would have these problems had you used an electronic gauge?

It's an electronic gauge. Evidently what I saw running into the cab may have been the leftover antifreeze from when he used it. Read my last post again, and it will say that there is no fuel going into the cab.

It's an electronic gauge. Evidently what I saw running into the cab may have been the leftover antifreeze from when he used it. Read my last post again, and it will say that there is no fuel going into the cab.


So there's a tube going to the gauge? That's a mechanical gauge. Or is there a wire from a sending unit?

Hmmm, it's definitely a tube from the isolator/sending unit.

UPDATE: I bled the air out of the lines and now the gauge reads zero. :doh: I am completely stumped.

Here is a link. The part that applies to you is near the bottom. The first page is blank so scroll down. Hope it helps.


http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1115A.pdf

Alright, I'm gonna bleed it that way again. I ended up getting it to read, but it still reads the same. I also noticed that the bleed screw was a little wet, so I'm gonna loosen it some more at idle, let it bleed for a while, then tighten er back down tight.

Thanks for that info! :D

Blake,

Is the isolator mounted higher then the filter housing? Maybe your getting air in the isolator giving you a false reading. Also it is a mechanical gauge wires are for the lighting.

Thanks Rick

There looks to be air in the lines when the truck is off, but with the key on or at idle I do not see any bubbles.

There looks to be air in the lines when the truck is off, but with the key on or at idle I do not see any bubbles.

do you understand the concept of having to BLEED the line of air for an accurate reading?

Everytime I bleed it from the gauge it reads zero. I have to go down to the lower part of the line and loosen it and retighten for it to read again. I have tried putting more anitfreeze in, but it just pushes back out.

Honestly...with all the trouble youre having i would just trash the mechanical gauge and go get a electric one...they are a lot easier to deal with and just as accurate

Yea buy an electric. I wouldn't want fuel going to my cab anyway...

Yea buy an electric. I wouldn't want fuel going to my cab anyway...

I think he does have an electric gauge and just has the hose to keep the sender away from the block....I have the same setup for my sender.
ITP has a hose with an air bleeder for this reason.

I think he does have an electric gauge and just has the hose to keep the sender away from the block....I have the same setup for my sender.
ITP has a hose with an air bleeder for this reason.
It's mechanical, I believe this is the guy he bought it from...
Blake,

Is the isolator mounted higher then the filter housing? Maybe your getting air in the isolator giving you a false reading. Also it is a mechanical gauge wires are for the lighting.

Thanks Rick

One, they don't make DiPricols anymore ai I can't just go buy one.

Second, I paid for a working gauge, so I'd rather get this one working before I spend even more money for something I have already paid for.

Third, the gauge is mechanical, but no fuel goes into the can. Only antifreeze. And I do have a stainless steel line going from the test port to the isolator.

Do you know anybody who has another gauge you can use to verify?

Nope, but I plan on getting a manual gauge soon.

Bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge from O'Reilly's today for $8 while I was ordering some Valvoline 5W-40. I'm gonna try and hook it up in the morning. Can I just run the two wires to the positive and negative terminals of the battery? Or do I even need to hook them up.

Hooked up the gauge today, and it's ready 55 PSI at idle. So it's definitely the gauge. Kinda sad that an $8 gauge works the first time. :doh:

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz352/MacbooknMyTruck/134ebb4d.jpg

What do I do now?

well looks like you need to get a new fuel pressure gauge then...preferably an electric one.

Nevermind, fixed it. Eveidently there was a super small leak underneath the regulator. Put some teflon tape and reattached it and the gauge reads 55 PSI. :doh:

Don't ya hate it when it's something stupid? Oh well, the FPR spring is going in anyways. Hoping for 70 PSI.

well glad you finally fixed it. 55 is still a lil low IMO but its definitely better than 25! the new spring will bring it up a few lbs

Yep. Thanks for all the help guys! I'm sorry that it was such a stupid minor issue. :doh:

Hey looks like your windshield is broken!

55 is perfect. There is no need for any more

Yeah, my windshield is. :doh: lots of repairs for this truck in the next two weeks. New windshield, FPR spring, overhead console, and drivers side rear door lock. Oh, and an '05 conversion if I can ever find a bumper. :doh: