Need help with PCM

Is this the right calibration code for the PCM?
6-89A-R11

And where would be the best place to find a decent priced, new PCM? I looked online and this place remans them: Auto Computer Exchange - Auto Computer Superstore - Cheaper than dealers and mechanics. (http://www.autocomputerexchange.com)
Anybody dealt with them?

I called Boyer Ford in Minneapolis and they want $539 for a new one... I am not able to afford that one...

Also, I don't have the truck sitting right here, but I have the VIN number. If that helps at all?

Is this the right calibration code for the PCM?
6-89A-R11

And where would be the best place to find a decent priced, new PCM? I looked online and this place remans them: Auto Computer Exchange - Auto Computer Superstore - Cheaper than dealers and mechanics. (http://www.autocomputerexchange.com)
Anybody dealt with them?

I called Boyer Ford in Minneapolis and they want $539 for a new one... I am not able to afford that one...

PSD ONLY
YEAR VEHICLE ENGINE TEMPLATEECM PART #CALIBMODL TYPESIZECSUMCODEAPPLICATIONMODULE APPLICATION
1997F-Series7.3L DI TCFM20P402 F6TF-AUG 6-89A-R11 DPC-203 88BF2E ALF6 F-250,350,450 DIESEL

Sounds correct for the truck in your sig. We send most everyone to Auto computer exchange. If they can't help might try salvage.

Well, I spoke with Eddy at Computer Exchange and he said that I need more numbers. I called Boyer Ford and they gave me a part number but it doesn't match the one listed above. It is F7TZ-12A650SB. And when I ask them for the calibration code they give me the 6-89A-R11. When I look on the web, the calibration codes that I am finding are four letters and a digit.

What am I looking at here?

whats up with your pcm, I know most people refer to them as TDe1 which is what mine is. I'm daily driving the truck now so I can't pull it for you but if there is anything I can help with let me know. Sounds like you can't pull yours out to verify #'s?

whats up with your pcm, I know most people refer to them as TDe1 which is what mine is. I'm daily driving the truck now so I can't pull it for you but if there is anything I can help with let me know. Sounds like you can't pull yours out to verify #'s?

He is a manual. DPC-203 is what he needs. If they want the calibration code just tell them alf6 or look on your PCM and give them what is on your PCM. Any of the calibrations given to them within the dpc-203 family should be fine.

Try RockAuto for a PCM. I was able to get an ALF4 PCM for my 94 (original PCM had been reflashed to that level and I wanted to keep it for diagnostic capability) for $115 plus $75 refundable core. Cheers!

Yeah, the truck is at the shop and I am trying to find this PCM info from home. The number that the shop has for me is the 6-89A-R11 off the sticker on the door. The dealer gave me a part number F7TZ-12A650SB from my VIN number and said that they could order me one and it'd take a week or two and cost the $539. I found online (PSN) ALF6. When I went to the shop tonight, I found the cap that goes on the back in a box with my old Banks chip. That gave me a confirmation of the ALF6. The Ford part number I couldn't make out except for the first few which was F6T?????? I called and talked to a different guy at Boyer and he said that they couldn't even get one anymore and that I'd have to call a dealer in Tulsa. I called Tulsa, gave them my VIN and he gave me the same F7TZ and the 6-89A-R11. Said they had the part and it was $590 with a $100 core.

What is DPC-203? How come Eddy from Automotive Computer Exchange was not able to do anything with the VIN or 6-89A-R11? Auto Comp Ex has the price that I am looking for, but can't do anything without the part number. The shop was closing just as I walked in and I didn't get to pull the PCM so they are going to do it tomorrow and give me the info. Would a PCM from a 95 manual work just so I could see if it is the PCM before I go and purchase one? How about a 97 auto? I don't think the 97 auto would work, but i don't know about the 95 manual...

I will also be checking RockAuto-
Thanks for the heads up, Guys!

I have a PCM for a 96 auto. Bought it to try in my 5speed but it was a no go. You want to try it I'll ship it to you. If it works we can make a deal on it.

hopefully diane will see this and chime in again, i thought I heard somewhere you could run an auto pcm in a manual but not vice versa but idk for sure. I wouldn't give up on the aftermarket, just gotta figure it out. and I would def try the other manual pcm-just without tunes. how has the truck been running otherwise? Im pretty sure you aren't driving the harley any more LOL

DPC-203 is the PCM family code. You can use any Calibration code associated with this DPC family in your truck.

You can try an auto if that's all you can find. The throttle pedal will be more sensitive. Keep trying the places mentioned and don't forget about the for sales section on here as well.

Fill in the info they are asking for and see what they have available. http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/Product/525




Diane

If you have access to a 95 5-speed PCM try it as it should work to atleast see if it is the PCM. Here's info on the ALF6 PCM if you need more info:

YEAR____CODE___CALIB.___MODL TYPE___ECM PART #___APP.___MODULE APP.___TEMPLATE
1996___ALF6___6-89A-R11___DPC-203___F6TF-AUG___7.3L F-250/350 DIESEL - MANUAL___49S/ALT/CAN___FM20P402

Soory about the formatting! The PCM part number should be F6tF-AUG. Cheers!

does josh have it?

Thanks for all the help guys!

I got the old computer from Josh on Thursday and ordered a PCM from Auto Comp Ex and it cost about $350 and should be here on Tues. I just can't wait and test one from a different truck so I went ahead and ordered one up. Josh is certain that this will fix the no start issue.

I was having problems with the motor cutting out at 3/4 throttle a while back and then the next day it was fine. Then the following day the motor would cut out at anything above an idle. Under 3/4 throttle it felt like I hit a tree head-on and then the motor would start back up and the WTS light would come on and I noticed the volts gauge would drop considerably, like I had turned the key on and was going to start it. So maybe this little issue was a precursor to the computer burning out completely. I inspected and cleaned the harness really well before I put the motor in, so I don't think it is a short to ground anywhere. Josh and his mechanic checked all of the grounds and fuses. I have replaced the CPS, and have a new ICP and IPR ready to put in. Josh said that the truck just cranks and cranks, no start. The WTS light won't come on and his diag. tool says there is "no communication" in it's current state.

I really hope this PCM is the issue...

Dustin are you sure the cigarette lighter fuse is good? Let us know

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I had drill this weekend.
Yeah, I am pretty sure that the cig fuse is good- they checked everything- fuses, grounds and sensors. I guess we will find out here in the next few days... the computer should be here tomorrow.

let us know