38 Gallon Rear Tank

Spectra Premium F26E 38-gal. Extra-Capacity Gas Tank: Compare Prices, View Price History and Read Reviews at NexTag (http://www.nextag.com/Spectra-Premium-F26E-38-630030906/prices-html)

My truck will be spending some time in the body shop here in the next few weeks. While it is there I thought about having them install the 38 gallon rear replacement for me.

I read a good deal about this mod in our library and found the comment that we can use the F26E and the info I found on the web tells me that the tank is not for diesel fuel. Is there 2 versions for the F26E? Is there a kit that can be bought or a parts list I can get?

Thanks for any help.

Can't think of a reason why diesel fuel can't be stored in it. It's not gonna eat through the metal or anything

The F26E is for the the diesel.

F26D is for gas trucks. The only difference is an air vent that is spot welded in the filler neck.

Pull that out and they are the same.

Anyone have a source on em?
Place I found em was BGY & they aren't cheap.

38gal pickup tank (http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30358-38-gal-steel-tank-pick-up.html)

If you can settle for a few gals less you can get a 33gal bronco tank for half the cost.

link (http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30216-gas-tank-33-gallon-plastic-90-96.html)

I just did the 38 gallon tank swap a few weeks ago. Buy the F26d, it is cheaper and literally takes 2 minutes to pop the vent out of the filler neck and its just like the f26e otherwise.

Cat, thats way too much I bought mine here... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

after shipping it was around ~$175 to my door.

Justin

P.S. I drove 598.2 miles on the rear tank, and currently I'm at over 700 miles and still have over half the front tank to go.

That's good info Justin, how far down does it hang from under the truck?

That's good info Justin, how far down does it hang from under the truck?

no lower than my hitch....unless you know what its supposed to be you wouldn't be able to tell...that said, I have not put my spare back under there yet, so? it may hang a little low, but not as low as the axle of course....so, we'll see.

Justin

Cat about half of what the Bronco tank does. I got my 38 gallon tank out of a 78 F350 camper about four years ago in a junk yard for $50.00 and then $60.00 more for cleaning and sealing.

A 4x4 installation will be slightly tricky in that they have that hideous design with no actual straps holding the rear tank; it's just held directly by the skid plates. Inevitable result, crud builds up in between them, tank rusts through. So if you go with the straps for the 33 / 38 gallon tank, you'll need to fab something up with threaded rod or the like, in order to hang the skid plates. If you do it right, you'll hang the skid plates with aprx. 1" between them and the bottom of the tank, so there won't be any way for the rust-o-genic crud to build up.

Cat about half of what the Bronco tank does. I got my 38 gallon tank out of a 78 F350 camper about four years ago in a junk yard for $50.00 and then $60.00 more for cleaning and sealing.

exactly, its less than 8in. deeper than the factory unit, and the factory unit is even with the bottom of the frame rail....also the spectra tank comes with the bolts and spacers needed to drop the skidplate to hold it. I used a compression fitting to extend the pickup tube and I bent a new float wire out of a piece of coathanger...the instructions that came with the tank had you extending the tube that holds the float unit down, and thus leaving you with a full tank for half of it, and then your gauge will move the last half....I didn't like that and made a new wire to show full sweep on the gauge for the entire tank full.

all told, maybe a couple hours actual work to swap it, however I took the easy way out and had the bed off because I was also installing a gooseneck hitch and removing some old bracketry from a previous owners 5th wheel hitch.

Justin

If you are missing the parts kit to drop the skid plate.

It is part # LO26D

Can be had for $40 or less.

also, you can coat the bottom of the tank in Chassis saver http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp


or any other epoxy coating to protect it from rust

That's good info Justin, how far down does it hang from under the truck?

7" inches lower than stock. I even put my spare under there and works fine on sig truck. The Bronco tank is 13" lower iirc then stock.

7" inches lower than stock. I even put my spare under there and works fine on sig truck. The Bronco tank is 13" lower iirc then stock.

So it holds more & hangs down less then a bronco tank?

So if you go with the straps for the 33 / 38 gallon tank, you'll need to fab something up with threaded rod or the like, in order to hang the skid plates. If you do it right, you'll hang the skid plates with aprx. 1" between them and the bottom of the tank, so there won't be any way for the rust-o-genic crud to build up.

Do you have any pictures of this that you have done? This is what I have planned but with little time I will have someone do it for me and it is much easier to show them a picture than explaining what has to happen.

If you are missing the parts kit to drop the skid plate.

It is part # LO26D



I have not found a parts list/kit for this mod. Do you have something I can get from you or someone else? I would love to get my hands on a parts list or kit. It sure would make it easier to just hand over to a shop.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

This is what I found on Rockauto. Is this the right tank that ya'll have used? Much cheaper than what I had found - thank you very much.

While this is being done I want to make sure and get the correct fill tube/hose so that I am not back there holding the pump for half an hour filling up. What did ya'll do for this? Thanks a lot for all the help - this is what I was looking for.

Do you have any pictures of this that you have done? This is what I have planned but with little time I will have someone do it for me and it is much easier to show them a picture than explaining what has to happen.



I have not found a parts list/kit for this mod. Do you have something I can get from you or someone else? I would love to get my hands on a parts list or kit. It sure would make it easier to just hand over to a shop.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

This is what I found on Rockauto. Is this the right tank that ya'll have used? Much cheaper than what I had found - thank you very much.

While this is being done I want to make sure and get the correct fill tube/hose so that I am not back there holding the pump for half an hour filling up. What did ya'll do for this? Thanks a lot for all the help - this is what I was looking for.

I bought this one.... More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM F26D (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=17213)

it is the same as the F26e, but you have to take out the vent in the filler neck, just a pair of vise grips and a little twisting. It comes with the spacer kit mentioned above and was shipped to me for ~$175 or so.

Justin

So if I buy this F26D from rockauto do I need anything else to install it? My rear tank is leaking bad and needs to be replaced. Compression fitting ant tubing to extend pickup, coat hanger for new float arm. Do I reuse the sender in my old tank? I just want all the stuff I need so I can just pull out the old and install the new. Thanks!

So if I buy this F26D from rockauto do I need anything else to install it? My rear tank is leaking bad and needs to be replaced. Compression fitting ant tubing to extend pickup, coat hanger for new float arm. Do I reuse the sender in my old tank? I just want all the stuff I need so I can just pull out the old and install the new. Thanks!

I painted my tank with 3m rubberized undercoating prior to installation because it comes bare. I can't remember the size compression fitting you'll need...i just rand down to the hardware store when I had it appart to get the right size with the tubing in my hand. Yes, you reuse your sending unit, thats what you'll need to extend down for the pickup.

Other than that you should be good.....in order to do the fast fuel filler mod, you will need to remove the filler necks from the truck, remove the long black plastic inner tubes, remove the metal reducers from the top of the neck.

take out the plastic roll-over valves on top of the tank and drill them out to accept a 5/8 hose barb elbo, JB weld that is, then drill into the metal filler neck and jb weld in a 5/8s hose barb to that as well and run a 5/8s breather hose from the neck to the rollover valves....there is a write up by DizlJim that is very helpfull in this. After completion I can now fill my tanks on full blast of the regular (non-18wheeler) nozzles.

Justin

Do you have any pictures of this that you have done? This is what I have planned but with little time I will have someone do it for me and it is much easier to show them a picture than explaining what has to happen. Well, we're running the standard 18-gallon tank, but I still went with straps, and used a set of studs, spacers and nuts to hang the skid plates with aprx. 1" space in between. We also coated EVERYTHING with organic raw linseed oil paint (the stuff that keeps decades-old iron-hulled ships afloat). No pics; I'll try to get some in the next night or two.

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/5622/2520144500081788797S600x600Q85.jpg


http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/3739/2570676310081788797S600x600Q85.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

So it holds more & hangs down less then a bronco tank?

Yes sir holds more..... hangs less then a Bronco..... 7" to Bronco at 13" compared to stock. 38 us gallons to 33 us gallons and the spare will fit under there too....

Sold American! Guess I will be ordering 1 on payday. Not to derail, is there also an inexpensive larger front tank option?

I've been planning on going with the 38 gallon and ditching the front tank....... Make it easy to run larger lines and twin pumps right from the tank.

man, two 38 gallon tanks would be sweeeet! so is there any science to bending the coat hanger for a new float? that would be my fear is jacking up the reading of my fuel gauge

man, two 38 gallon tanks would be sweeeet! so is there any science to bending the coat hanger for a new float? that would be my fear is jacking up the reading of my fuel gauge

Not really any science, just be careful when installing and removing the float off the unit, you'll see what I mean when you get it out and look at it....I just took a pair of vice grips and a pair of pliers and took my time. I used the original float wire as a pattern, just making one section longer....I actually made two, cause the first one was too short, go ahead and extend the pickup down first and then play with it and see how long it needs to be.

When I had mine made I test fit it in the tank and it was slightly too long because when it was sitting in the tank with no fuel it was just above E, so I bent the wire a little and it went to where i wanted it to on the gauge, tested it again full just to make sure.

It will make a lot more sense when you get it out to see it first hand.

Justin

thanks for the tip, that gives me some confidence to do it, having a bigger tank will be so much nicer on the long road trips! anybody know if this tank can be used up front as well?

What tank came on the F-Superduty?

thanks for the tip, that gives me some confidence to do it, having a bigger tank will be so much nicer on the long road trips! anybody know if this tank can be used up front as well?

Rear only, the front tank is rectangular and mounts on the drivers side midship.

I painted my tank with 3m rubberized undercoating prior to installation because it comes bare. I can't remember the size compression fitting you'll need...i just rand down to the hardware store when I had it appart to get the right size with the tubing in my hand. Yes, you reuse your sending unit, thats what you'll need to extend down for the pickup.

Other than that you should be good.....in order to do the fast fuel filler mod, you will need to remove the filler necks from the truck, remove the long black plastic inner tubes, remove the metal reducers from the top of the neck.

take out the plastic roll-over valves on top of the tank and drill them out to accept a 5/8 hose barb elbo, JB weld that is, then drill into the metal filler neck and jb weld in a 5/8s hose barb to that as well and run a 5/8s breather hose from the neck to the rollover valves....there is a write up by DizlJim that is very helpfull in this. After completion I can now fill my tanks on full blast of the regular (non-18wheeler) nozzles.

Justin




Are any new tank straps needed...etc?
(I'll be plumbing in a Airdog DF-165 setup with new pickup straw also)
I'm looking to do this mod and would like to source the parts local through Advance auto if possible.
Can you please direct me to the vehicle info that this 38 Gallon "F26E" tank comes out of so I can have the auto parts store look up the correct "replacement" part # I can use for the retrofit?

:psn::psn:
Thanks !!!!!! :bowfast::bowfast:

Not sure but I didn't see any links so I'll throw this in there: DZLJIM's 38 gallon tank install. (http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/DZLJIM/Ford/38gallonOBStank.htm)

I believe the F26E came in the late '80's trucks, like a 1988 F-350.
I mounted mine using the stock skid plate not straps, and I also mounted the spare under it by extending the hanger mounts with some pipe.

I seriously doubt your lcoal parts store will beat the price from RockAuto even shipped to you.

I don't have a skid plate Jim unfortunately, so maybe I can just use the factory straps with some longer bolts?

Thanks for the quick response!

Are any new tank straps needed...etc?
(I'll be plumbing in a Airdog DF-165 setup with new pickup straw also)
I'm looking to do this mod and would like to source the parts local through Advance auto if possible.
Can you please direct me to the vehicle info that this 38 Gallon "F26E" tank comes out of so I can have the auto parts store look up the correct "replacement" part # I can use for the retrofit?

:psn::psn:
Thanks !!!!!! :bowfast::bowfast:

Mine was held on bottom by the skid plate and had straps on top, so if you don't have a skid plate then i don't know, but the Kit came with spacers and longer bolts for the skid plate. And like Jim said, I highly doubt you'll get a cheaper price than Rock Auto....I work part time for Advance so I get employee discount and i still bought mine from Rock Auto.....oh yea, and its been 3 weeks since I bought any fuel...and I'm still got half the rear tank left.

Justin

600 miles on the rear tank in the summer, about 825 mi between fill ups.
Winter sucks, I can squeeze maybe 500 out of the rear and 150 out of the front.

600 miles on the rear tank in the summer, about 825 mi between fill ups.
Winter sucks, I can squeeze maybe 500 out of the rear and 150 out of the front.

Nice!!! :bowfast:

600 miles on the rear tank in the summer, about 825 mi between fill ups.
Winter sucks, I can squeeze maybe 500 out of the rear and 150 out of the front.

I could 600+ miles in the summer and about 300 miles on the front tank (city/highway driving)

But the same mileage for the winter fuel. Winter fuel sucks:mad:

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

I got the F26D tank from RockAuto and It's a VERY NICE kit for how cheap it is!!!
I'm having trouble breaking the vent tube out of the filler neck, mine must have a good weld on it....Do I need to remove it or can I leave it in there?
Thanks !!

Put my filler neck in a drill press vice and used a hole saw in the drill press to cut it out. I guess you could if careful, use a the hole saw and cut out the vent restrictor while on the truck. You would not want to have the fill hose hooked up because of metal chips and flakes. Just go slow and it should work I also used cutting fluid to cut easier. It will fill faster if you cut it out. Just so I am clear here are we speaking of the filler vent in the elbow? The vent tube in the filler hole on the F26D tank, iirc I just left it in there. I tried to twist it out but broke the whole neck out of the tank. Had to re-solder it in.

I opted to enlarge the roll over vent using J B weld, a brass street elbow and some other odds and ends to replace the in hose vent system.

http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/44898/2705287530055497311S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2705287530055497311LojeIP)

http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/47681/2199205760055497311S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2199205760055497311xOXULU)

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/46192/2473597740055497311S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2473597740055497311YGBznx)

http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/44638/2245520420055497311S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2245520420055497311HMkAaG)

Yeah, I was trying to remove the vent tube in the tanks filler tube....I hope I didn't break anything in my unsuccessful attempt at removal.

Thanks for the great pics of the vent mod !

Yeah, I was trying to remove the vent tube in the tanks filler tube....I hope I didn't break anything in my unsuccessful attempt at removal.

Thanks for the great pics of the vent mod !

Grab it with a good stiff pair of pliers. I used lineman's pliers.

Twist it in a circle. It will wrap around the pliers and should easily pop the spot welds without damaging anything.

Like these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PJ3IU8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BQ49WC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0YX8DA9QQCN14C9YWXGD

Grab it with a good stiff pair of pliers. I used lineman's pliers.

Twist it in a circle. It will wrap around the pliers and should easily pop the spot welds without damaging anything.

Like these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PJ3IU8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BQ49WC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0YX8DA9QQCN14C9YWXGD

:whs: I just took a pair of vise grips and clamped them down on the vent, did a little twisting and rocking back and forth and it popped right out....it literally took me longer to find the vise grips than it did to get it out.

Justin

Guess I was too aggressive as I used V grips and it broke the entire neck out of the tank....hahaha. Got out the torch solder and paste....and I just left the vent fitting in place.

so. The poly tank from bronco grave yard is not as good as the steel one? Seems like it would be better? Next. Do you just slap a draw staw into the top of it? And run a return line? ditch the front tank. Because my cummins swap Is going to need a good bit of fuel.

so. The poly tank from bronco grave yard is not as good as the steel one? Seems like it would be better? Next. Do you just slap a draw staw into the top of it? And run a return line? ditch the front tank. Because my cummins swap Is going to need a good bit of fuel.

Yup, you got it.

The plastic is a benefit to the bronco tank but the dimensions of the F26E are much better plus 5 more gallons capacity. With some spray bomb coating, the steel tank might outlast the truck at this point. I wiped down my steel tank with Acetone, used Scotch brite to rough up a little, wiped again w/ acetone(USE GLOVES!), Primed and Painted with Lowe's-Rustoleum bedliner spray.
My original 16 year old metal tank didn't get this good of a coating and it was still ok....

I like your Cummins swap idea, I wish I had done that a long time ago with mine !! :D




.

do you slap a draw straw? and is there the correct sending unit to buy or will the diesel eat the gas lines?

do you slap a draw straw? and is there the correct sending unit to buy or will the diesel eat the gas lines?

Yeah, draw straw kit from Airdog.
The Tank is the same Gas or Diesel trucks...all metal, nothing to eat up, just the "D" model has a vent tube in the neck.
You reuse your stock stuff and modify the level sensor by extending it a couple inches with some welding rod or wire you have laying around.