04-07-2010, 12:02 AM
i have a 2006 f250 4x4 short crew cab, if all thar matters. my truck starts within 2-3 seconds when it has set for a while, but it cranks/no strat when its hot "going thru a drive thru, shut truck off to talk/hear intercom." go to start and wont start. "wife was crying from embersament, due to people pushing truck out of drive thru" all the other posts didn't say anything about the problem being when hot. i put two new batterys on it. tryed shutting off and restarting, it took over 5 seconds of cranking, tell it started, figured the batterys didn't help. i waited with truck off for about 30 seconds before restarting.. any help would be great,
truck is my wifes dailey driver, and have no other vehicle to drive.
04-07-2010, 12:39 AM
Sounds like its not building oil pressure, can you see it building pressure on the dummy gauge? That or not getting fuel due to FICM. Generally the culprits. No smoke on start up?
04-07-2010, 12:55 AM
HPOP I would amagine..
04-07-2010, 04:42 AM
If the engine is running fine otherwise (no engine misfires, or rough running, hard-starting when the engine is cold etc.), I'd chalk it up as another high pressure oil system leak that will require diagnosis to pinpoint. Typical high pressure oil system leaks on a 2006 model year are blown STC fittings and/or lower d-rings on the high pressure oil rail dummy rail plugs.
04-07-2010, 02:58 PM
no there is no smoke. if i crank for a while, the oil pressuse comes up on the dash, but no start when it does. and if it is the hpop, is that something i can do, or should i take to shop? i work on cars and trucks, but know nothing when it comes to deisel. to me it seams like it is not getting fuel.
another thing with the truck, is in the mornings when temp is cold. when i start truck it runs like it is missing 3-4 cylnders, it lopes harder than my race car. but it gets better as it runs. like the glowplugs are not working right to worm the cylnders up. also i i try to drive the truck without letting it run for about 10 min, it runs bad and won't shift out of 1st till it worms up. so maybe the GPCM the root of all the problems? i have tryed reading alot of all the other posts before doing this thread, so i don't wast ya'll time. but have not seen anything that is like what i have going on.
04-07-2010, 04:05 PM
At this point, you'll need to have it diagnosed by someone with a scan tool (preferably with an IDS). You will need to monitor FICM_L, FICM_M, FICM_V, FICM_SYNC, ICP volts, ICP psi, ICP Desired, IPR duty cycle, RPM, VPWR and SYNC. All of the above will need to be monitored at Key-On/Engine-Off, and while cranking the engine over attempting to start it WHEN IT DOESN'T START to see what you are missing in order to pinpoint the cause. If you jump the gun putting in a high pressure oil pump, you will end up spending needless amounts of money on expensive parts on a gamble.
04-07-2010, 04:14 PM
i was also told that a sensor goes out that is at the back of the intake. would that be the ICP sensor not reading the 500 psi to start the truck. i do not have the money to take to a shop. so anything i can do with a volt/amp meter is great. looking and reading post about this stuff scares me, due to how much stuff you remove to get to parts, all that just adds up on money from buying new gaskets, fluids, o-rings, and tools that you don't have, but have to have to do stuff.(torx head screws, ect.) but i can manage the tool part. (snap on tool truck credit)
04-07-2010, 09:58 PM
i was also told that a sensor goes out that is at the back of the intake. would that be the ICP sensor not reading the 500 psi to start the truck.
Yes, that is correct. However, THAT only applies to 2003 model year 6.0L engines. If yours happens to be a newer model year, it's likely that yours won't have this issue.
i do not have the money to take to a shop. so anything i can do with a volt/amp meter is great. looking and reading post about this stuff scares me, due to how much stuff you remove to get to parts, all that just adds up on money from buying new gaskets, fluids, o-rings, and tools that you don't have, but have to have to do stuff.(torx head screws, ect.) but i can manage the tool part. (snap on tool truck credit)
All the more reason you should be having your issue DIAGNOSED first, rather than taking the "shotgun" approach to your issue. A strategy that WILL end up costing you THOUSANDS real quick. Get your hands on a scan tool (notice I say SCAN TOOL not CODE READER) as I've already indicated in my above post and monitor all the parameters I've listed before you go any further or even turn ONE bolt. Post up your readings.
04-09-2010, 01:18 AM
black bullet i always thinking that in the back of my mind when i shut it off threw a drive threw is it going to start but if it doesnt just tell the drive threw guy im going to need a push theres always a bunch of kids working there that would be fun for them ...
04-09-2010, 02:49 PM
If my 6.0 won't restart at a drive threw, I'll burn it before I'll push it.