05 missing, bucking when not up to operating temp

Just recently purchased an 05 superduty crew cab has around 245,000 was told it has the updated head studs and egr delete. I'm new to the sixxer so just learning. Anyways it was a rollover and cheap. But it misses and bucks if it's not up to operating temp. Like for lack of better explanation the gauge being halfway between hot n cold. It runs great at that point. But not till it gets there and If the gauge gets back toward cold starts running bad again. I don't wanna throw $ at it that isn't gonna help me out. I've done alot of research on here and am getting a good idea on how everything works on these engines but haven't came across anyone with my particular problem. I'm thinking ficm. Gonna check the volts on it today as that's how I understand u know it needs replaced. If it's under 45 volts. Am I goin in the right direction?? Thanks in advance!

if the ficm is dropping voltage there's your problem and you'll need a back half.if not start looking at injectors.

If it is the FICM, the best plan would be to send it to FICMrepair.com IMO. Reasonable pricing - a lot cheaper than a half-shell from the dealership,

checked the ficm voltage, 48.7 volts when running. I checked the volts when it wasnt running and they were low, and the longer i held the meter on there the lower they went. Started around 6 and they were dropping. not sure if that matters or not. I assume the important part is while running. Drove it around today and it seems the longer I drive it the better it gets until I stop and either let it idle for awhile or shut it off for awhile

It should ALWAYS be over 45, in fact it really should always be 47-48.

The proper way to check the FICM is with a cold engine and at cold ambient temps. Check it KOEO, cranking, and running at 2000 rpm's. ALL of these readings are important. A bad FICM can ruin injectors .............

Also - even if the voltages are good, the FICM can be bad. It is a computer, so it is more than a power supply.

the only time they were low was key off. key on was over 47 as was cranking and running. Like you say< even with good voltage it could still be bad. I just dont wanna throw money at it not knowing exactly what it is. It was a rollover, so the other thing I worry is if it stayed running after it rolled. The truck was rolled in the end of oct 2011 and has sat since then. I have heard and read of may things that can affect injectors, since its cold here, 15-30f on average this time of year I wonder if I should maybe run a thinner oil, and maybe an additive? Also the MAF was horribly dirty so I cleaned tha, seemed to make the truck run better, but still has a miss to it. Also noticed if i stop on the road and let it idle, wen i first take off its good, then starts to miss, almost as if its running out of supplied fuel.

Codes ?

Any way to monitor fuel pressure?

Im new to these trucks< so not sure how to check the codes, other than takin it to my buddies shop and having him plug it in. Where is there a port to check fuel pressure?

The port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter M12x1.5 threads

Mine does the exact same thing, been doing for several months. My ficm also checked good. Put 2 bottles of Rev X additive in the oil, made it better for a while, but now it's coming back. Fairly certain it's an injector issue, maybe 1 or more injectors going south. I am planning Warren Injectors in the next month or so.....once I get some money!!!

it does sound like injector stiction. id change out the oil to 5w-40 synthetic. which shoud help some. then, add rev-x to the oil like ^he^ said. if that doesnt cure it, then id say injector problem. have u looked into gettting a scangauge2? i recommend them to every 6.0 owner. also, id change out all the fluids with those miles and change filters and make sure they're all OEM.

if you do go the ficm route i would buy from swamps i got a 58v one when i replaced mine and i havent had any problems with it. even cold starts better and such.

Well, plugged it in lastnight. 13f this morn and it fired right up. Let it idle for 15 min, after about 4-5 miles down the road she ran smooth all the way to work. Hoping maybe some 5-40 oil and additive helps. Who knows what was put in it after the rollover!

Well, plugged it in lastnight. 13f this morn and it fired right up. Let it idle for 15 min, after about 4-5 miles down the road she ran smooth all the way to work. Hoping maybe some 5-40 oil and additive helps. Who knows what was put in it after the rollover!

100% identical to mine! If I plug it in it runs great! I have been going to switch oils but havent uses up all my 15/40 I had. I am sure oil change and rev x will help ya for a while.

Same issue, switched to 5w40 synthetic and Hot Shots Secret.. worked after 1000 miles until 3000miles.. now starting to buck again.

So, wondering if I should just cut my losses and just start lookin at injectors? Instead of the balloon gig can I use my hand help pyrometer to check the temp on the manifold to which cylinder is cold?

Just replace em all. And do hg's while ur at it.

haha, funny you should say that ksieckmann, threw a pressure gauge on the degas bottle on the way home from wor, steady 16lbs all the way home. Dont flame me, I know you cant reuse head bolts, but this motor is already studded, can they be reused?

arp studs are reusable

So, wondering if I should just cut my losses and just start lookin at injectors? Instead of the balloon gig can I use my hand help pyrometer to check the temp on the manifold to which cylinder is cold?

I would just replace them all. The oil change and additives will help it for a while but they really are a temp. fix. I have a bunch of parts waiting to go on (egr delete, Arp's, and the sort) so I am going to get some Warren Diesel injectors and do it all at once now. And yes ARP's are reusable....BTW what gaskets were used when the motor was studded before?

I'm not sure what gaskets were used. I bought the truck with them already done. I have no clue the maintenance record of the truck. Looks like my good deal wasn't as good as I thought!

never is :S sucks for us lol :)

never is :S sucks for us lol :)

Man aint that the TRUTH!!

Well.....hopefully once you get it fixed this time it will be golden for ya!

I have a buddy that owns a shop. Thought about having him pull the cab and I will do the head gaskets and just rent the space for the day. I'm not very trustworthy of people working on my vehicles.

I have a buddy that owns a shop. Thought about having him pull the cab and I will do the head gaskets and just rent the space for the day. I'm not very trustworthy of people working on my vehicles.

I am with ya on that! I had a quote of $2400 parts and labor from a shop to do my studs, and while its apart replace oil cooler and install my egr cooler delete.

Pretty good deal to me, and he has a decent reputation....but its 3 hours away. I keep going back and forth on having them do it or do it myself. I have access to a hoist too. Plus I kinda wanna just learn about my truck...what better way than to tear it apart!

Rev-X WILL get rid of your stiction issue. HSS IS NOT the same caliber of product.

Im willing to give RevX a shot on next oil change, heard too many good things from people to say it doesnt work.

Update on my truck. Checked the codes. Got a PO269-299-336. Did the self test on injectors and glow plugs and it said they passed ok. Did another KOEO and it passed. Tried the KOER and it would make a weird noise then abort the test. Also I drove it about 8 miles to my buddies where we checked codes. He rode down the road with me and the engine temp was 140. Seems low for 10 miles of driving. Also it was 32 outside and the iat #1 said 44 deg and #2 said 76 degrees and neither changed much wether I was on or off the throttle.