Pics of another conversion

99 F350

We did internal work to the engine for twins and lots of hp later but for now it just had a stock charger and really small sticks.

The clutter and loose wires on the driver side was his WVO system, he added the wiring when he came to pick the truck up and take it back to WI.


http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion001.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion002.jpg
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http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion005.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion006.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion007.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion008.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/beansdiesel/CumminsConversion009.jpg

Kai, I still need that expansion tank for this one, the stock one rubs the hood and pushes on the fan shroud, told him I would just send it up to him when its done.

Looks good!.

When doing this, do you have to pull the cab off?

I got a question since I have been really thinking about doing one of these swaps, how do you get the cruise control to work correctly? I use my truck to go on trips up north and it would sucks to hold my foot for 5+hours and since its mostly empty roads when I drive it would be nice for it to work. All this talk on how people have done it is helping me build confidence its not as hard as it looks.

Cab stays on just fine.

Cruise takes a gas engine cruise servo motor and cable hooked to the Cummins APPS sensor/throttle assembly and is wired into the PCM harness as it comes out of the PCM. Wires are clipped and hooked to the servo according to the correct pin outs and all cruise functions work like a charm. If you look at one of the pics on teh driver side right between the batterys and the fuse box is the cruis servo mounted to the fender.

Looks good!

Very nice!

I thought that was how it would work, but wasnt sure. Thanks bean! BTW thats a very nice job on that truck.

I don't wanna start another thread just to give an update, so Bean, please tolerate me butting in briefly.

I've installed a shift kit in the Allison 1000- big chore, tear the whole thing down. I bought a 273F transfer case that has a stick shift input shaft, which happens to fit the Allison output shaft. The T-case is rebuilt and also has the speedo tripper thingy (reluctor wheel) installed on it's output shaft and has a boss welded onto the output shaft housing with a hole bored through them for the sensor that's necessary for the Allison to work right in 4 hi and low. There's no adapters in my setup, unless you want to call the SAE#3 flex plate housing an adapter.

Personally, I'd never go that route again and I'd buy the adapters. That's cheaper and easier. I had to move part of the firewall back 6" right next to the steering column to make room for the 15cfm air compressor that's mounted to my rear gear case.

I have NO idea at this point if I'm going to have fan clearance without shifting it all aft enough that I'll have to modify drivelines. We'll see soon enough though, hopefully this weekend.

Oh yeah, before I forget, I broke down and bought the Suncoast tranny output shaft housing for the Allison. Holy smokes, now I know why it's so expensive. That thing is enormous and will keep the transfer case from breaking off, which is exactly what the stock rear housing does because it's too light. Consequently, it's part of the cost of doing it right. I had the hole pattern in the rear flange drilled to match the 273F T-case with the stock angle of the dangle, so it's a direct bolt up.

I also have a triple disc PI torque converter I bought a couple months ago from a guy on fleabay. The tranny has all new clutches in it, the steels are in excellent shape, so it's looking like I'll have a tough 5 speed for behind the Cummins.

I still need to get a power steering pump that mounts to the front of the air compressor, and probably a FASS system, and that should do it for the expensive hard parts...except I only have a stock turbo for it right now.

clam out.

So what is the best tranny to match up to the cummins in an 02 F-350. And would it be much better than the ATS w/ Triple Loc converter I already have in the truck. I'm in the process of building a 7.3 w/ girdle, hypermax rods, H11 studs, hypermax fire rings, GTP-38R, hypermax hi-rev kit, etc. and now I think I'd be nuts to keep going from all this cummins stuff I'm hearing. Should I sell all the parts and go staight to a CR.

That's my big debate now! I don't want to keep throwing money at my powerstoke to build a nice tow rig, when I can get a cummins in there and get more power for less cash, after its all finished that is.

How hard would you say it is to put an 03 or newer cummins in there? I the wiring really that bad?

Also bean, do you have or sell any of the conversion parts? or where do you get your stuff?

DESTROKED

I think a built 4R100 would hold up just fine! :D

I'm sticking with my zf6 for simplicity. That's what I have and don't what to deal with trans controller crap, just more money for me

Go Commonrail and be happy :D.

Ya I sell and install all of the Destroke parts. Wirring isnt that bad at all, just takes some time to do it all up and make it look nice.

Best tranny- 4r100 or zf6

I've got the trans. I just need a clutch to hold up!!

Another question for bean, do you or destroked sell something like a big wiring kit for most of it, or is alot of it custom? or using your imaginations?:pointlaugh:

:D

I've got the trans. I just need a clutch to hold up!!

Another question for bean, do you or destroked sell something like a big wiring kit for most of it, or is alot of it custom? or using your imaginations?:pointlaugh:

:D
X2 :confused::confused:

This might be overkill and it's very application specific:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=60250
with the tranny harness (I don't know which tranny):
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=60251
some other do-dads depending on engine year:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/searchrefined.php?partsearch=cummins
Powertrain Control Solutions (PCS)
http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/

I've got the trans. I just need a clutch to hold up!!

Another question for bean, do you or destroked sell something like a big wiring kit for most of it, or is alot of it custom? or using your imaginations?:pointlaugh:

:D

There is no wiring kit to hook it up direct plug and play, but the wirring is really not that bad.

The Painless kit is a freaking joke, you still have to do the same amount of wirring as a stock harness. To make a cr run or even a vp truck there are 3 wires to hook up. ECU ground wich already has a loop end on it just hook it to the battery. ECU battery power wich all you have to do is put an end on it and hook it to the battery and then the switch power wich all you have to do is hook it into the switched wire in the Ford harness.

To make the dash gauges work you take the stock oil pressure gauge and water temp sensors put then in the cummins block and use the Ford harness with factor plugs and plug them in. For the Tach PCS will soon have a conversion box so all you have to do is tap the Cummins crank sensor and hook it direct to the Ford tach wire. We have been using a tone ring and aftermarket tach pickup to run them.

To do a cruise there is about 8 wires to hook up wich once you have the pin outs is very easy.

OBD2 hook up is about 4 wires and with the Cummins pin outs its very easy.

It is a bit time consuming doing the wirring but none of it is comlicated at all.

Real nice work Ryan!!!!!

Anyone got a wiring harness for an Allison 1000?

Has anyone figured out the service engine soon light yet, or is there no way to make it work due to how its runs through the dodge pcm?

:whs:

I was wondering the same thing out of curiousity!

Pin #2 on the pcm- Check Engine Light= SNIP

How maney hr does it take you to do a cr swap Bean?

Nice work Ryan you are sure making a name for yourself doing swaps like this. I'm curious as to what engine work was done to it... and what the expected power level is going to be, that you built the engine to support?

I've got the trans. I just need a clutch to hold up!!




Good luck with that. I think you will find that once you find a clutch that will hold, you'll be saying I've got a clutch that will hold but I need one that will actually disengage fully and let me shift the truck.

The ford master/slave assembly is a joke.

Damn I want to do this in the near future............ I was offered a 24 valve the other day but no funds to get the destroked stuff and the controller and the trans is stock as far as clutches and such id want to go thru the trans to be sure there is no issues later on.

Hrs is hard for me to say cause I work on so many different trucks at the same time but I would guess close to 100 hrs total for a first timmer.

That engine had a cam, oringed block, studs, and a few other small things so that it would hold 1000hp if he went that crazy later on.

Brian, what would you say is the hardest part of a swap?

Looks great Ryan.

Hardest part of the swap IMO is collecting all of the different parts needed to make it nice. Just one custom part that takes 3-6 weeks to get can really drag a project out.

I'll second that from a driveway mechanic standpoint. That's why I've made the comments I have about making sure anyone doing a swap gets the WHOLE package, not MOST of the package. Too much time and money gets pissed away on e-bay that way.

So there's no complete kit at this point then? I've got the 02 7.3 with the ATS auto and triple-loc. I've spent four months collecting all the sweet stuff for a 7.3 and miss my truck yet I'm still seriously contemplating a conversion right after finding good head cores and spending $3K on hopping them up no less.

There will never be a "complete" kit, there are just way to many variations of a swap to do that. What we have is general parts for all of the different conversions and combine them together to get you the basic needs for as swap then what you want custom because everyone wants something different, you get done on your own. Like I have said before, its not all that hard but is very time consuming.

In addition to what Bean said, if you are missing ANY parts, it adds countless hours of tracking things down to buy them. Example- I'm missing one fuel line- from the high pressure
CP3 pump to the fuel rail. I can't just fab one because that tube has to withstand as much as 35,000 psi. Therefore it has to be made from seamless tubing and should be pressure tested before installation. End fittings have to be perfect. The tube expands and contracts with each pressure wave from the pump, so it has to be made from something that's fatigue tested. It's got complicated bends in it that probably have to be put in before it's heat treated. I ordered a new one from Cummins- $65 with second day air shipping to the house. It arrived yesterday. Great! Except it's for a FRONT gear train engine and mine is a REAR gear train with the CP3 mounted in back. The tube is useless and 6" too short. Not going to work if I cut it and put 6" of neoprene fuel line in it, now is it? So now I have to spend the time going through returning it and re-ordering the right one which is almost impossible to find in Cummins' crappy Quickserve proprietary parts system which is all by engine serial number- except the fuel tube of course, which they listed under a generic heading because 95% of the CP3 equipped engines they build are FRONT gear train, and they figure nobody would ever need a fuel tube anyway. So how much time am I going to spend on that? Another example- engine mounts- bought a nice pair through Kai- used the upper halves but the lower part that bolts to the truck may as well be for a merry-go-round. Can't use them because again, my engine configuration and the fact that I'm installing in an excursion make enough difference that they don't fit. So I had to spend an extra $250 on steel, machining and welding and two trips to the machine shop and two trips to the steel yard because I mis-measured when I got in a hurry. Two days of my spare time shot down. These conversions are like that. The fact that Bean is actually making money and not loosing his a$$ is nothing short of a miracle of very hard work and very careful planning on his part. I wouldn't be surprised if he's not making money at conversions yet when you look at his time investment.

At this point, I'm supposed to relocate clear across the continent and start my new job in 3 weeks. I'm still screwing around with this conversion and I need the truck to tow the trailer when I leave in just under two weeks. That's work pressure that I don't need, but I have to deal with it anyway.
Oh yeah, don't put a rear gear train with an SAE #3 housing into a Superduty unless you want to build a new firewall in your spare time. I'm hoping I don't have to stare at the top of an allison transmission all the way to South Carolina...with the air conditioning not hooked up and the engine heat pouring into the cab.

So here's some generalized rules for the NON professional mechanic who is going to DIY:

Rule one: plan ahead- Get all of the parts you need before you tear your running truck apart.

Rule two: make sure you buy a complete, undamaged package to install- fan to flywheel. Maybe you'll change the flywheel- I don't have to.

Rule three: It's expensive- VERY expensive. More than you will want to spend, so don't blow up your 7.3. Sure, a cummins is a great engine, but not ten grand or more better than the 7.3.

Rule 4: Plan on it taking 2.5 times longer than your ugliest estimate if everything goes well. 80 to 100 hours for installation and getting it running seems to be the norm. 2.5 times that is the norm if you deviate from just doing the conversion by anything to the situation like I did by adding an engine driven air compressor.

Rule 5: Help will arrive once you've driven yourself crazy and finished the part you needed help with.

Rule 6: Your significant other is going to be pissed off with how much money and time you are dumping into your truck- so plan ahead on that too.

Rule 7: It will be done when it's done, and that won't be on your schedule. It will go way past your level of staying calm with how long it takes. So plan on growing some character in the process along with more patience than you ever thought possible.

Rule 8: When it's done, it still won't be a race truck. Competitive vehicles don't weigh 7,000 pounds regardless of what engine is in them. If you have a need to have a 7 second diesel, it will NOT be a superduty unless you install JATO rockets in the bed, so be realistic. Push it too hard and your new Cummins will break, just like a Navistar engine.

Rule 9: Instant support is NOT a phone call away. As Bean said, there's a ton of different combinations, and he's a busy guy installing those combinations. If you can't figure those things out ahead of time for yourself, pay him to do the job.

I really don't know all the details of the 5.9 my buddy has a 97 and says stick with the 97/early 98 12V. I see alot of people above saying common rail which i guess is the 03 up, with the 24v in the middle between 98 1/2 thru 03. My buddy was telling me to get a manual tranny motor as it has bigger injectors to start with, but to be honest if I'm building it, I want to put in bigger injectors and a phatshaft or a compound system to start with anyway. And of course that the 24V is harder to install, as it is computer controlled, with the CR being even worse. Not impossible obviously but just more complicated.

When you say in rule three "so don't blow up your 7.3. Sure, a cummins is a great engine, but not ten grand or more better than the 7.3.",

My 7.3 is already blown up. I threw a rod and it took out the block. I picked up a couple of used engines and between them got a set of good uncracked heads to rebuild with a hypermax rev kit, hardened intake and exhaust seats, inconnel valves, machined for fire rings, etc. , and a couple of good blocks and cranks. I was looking at around 15-18K for my build with BO, larger injectors, hypermax rods, mahle coated pistons, main girdle, h11 studs with fire rings, etc. but I see all the 12V stuff and it seems like everything is half the price except for the fuel pump being about the same as BO, my quick calcs show it's still cheaper or the same cost for a Cummins if you add up all the fuel system from tank to injectors.

I basically have a truck that I need to build an engine for, my 7.3 is already toast, so since I already have boxes of parts listed above except for the BO and injectors which will cost another $4K or so. Should I sell it all of and go 5.9 from the ground up or finish the 7.3?

I know big question!!:doh::doh:

No brainer- 5.9 and dont look back. Spend the same money that you are gonna spend on that 7.3 to build it and you will be many hp ahead and more dependable doing it.

Back to the original truck .... is it still setup to run WVO/SVO with the Cummins?

I'm voting with Bean on this one. The 7.3 is a great engine until you have to pay for a rebuild or until you want more power out of it. Then it just sucks, mostly money.

Going on 40k now, been over 600hp from day one. I'm not looking back :redspotdance:

Back to the original truck .... is it still setup to run WVO/SVO with the Cummins?



Yes it runs on it almost full time, only uses diesel to purge the system.

Yes it runs on it almost full time, only uses diesel to purge the system.

Cool. All my SVO research has been with the 7.3. Didn't know how the Cummins did with it, and how the switch to CR effected that.

Still not sure the cost is worth it to me, but if/when I toast my 7.3 I will have to look at the options. At 250K I may be there in a couple of years. :D